Travelling / Backpacking / Flashpacking the World!

6am start, out of the tent and the flies are on you. Kim is off on a tour so her journey with us is now over. Kalbarri National Park day for me and Hans, what a mission a 4x4 would be beautiful. Some skilful driving on my part, Hans wasn’t so skilful on the way back, coming of the gravel sand track and ripping the rear bumper off, some handy work with a bit of string and then we drove to a garage in town and with self drilling screws, drilled it back on.

Anyway, our first stop was the natural window rock formation and then we did a walk known as the loop, which runs around the Tumblagooda Sandstone gorges of the Murchison River. Incredible views, and what a walk, it’s so badly marked that we got lost twice, there are so many different levels of rock and just all looks the same. Luckily we had ten litres of water with us and some cooked rice each, it’s meant to be an 8km walk, we done a hell of a lot more, if not double, which doesn’t sound a lot, but believe me the walk is hard enough but in this heat and with these flies, it’s a killer, you could die out here. When we eventually got back I was knackered and after four litres of water I still haven’t been to the toilet.

We then spent what was left of the day driving around checking out all the various different viewpoints around the park, which involved a lot more walking. With all the sites done we then drove out of town to a camp site for the night. I’m really trying not to let the flies’ wind me up, but just try eating with them, as the sun goes down they disappear, and out come the mosquitos, Great. Another early night, what a hot one.

Happy birthday Hans! Rain in the night so not only are the flies out in force but also as soon as you stand still in one place for longer then five seconds you’ve got ants crawling up your legs and biting you, the ground is covered with them. Ahhh, I want to scream but unfortunately it’s not going to get rid of them. The flies even follow you in the car, there is just no getting away from them. HELP.

Apart from getting up from this camp site as soon as possible first thing we got to do is a cyclone check, (no radio signals for miles). On the last check two days ago it was north of here but out at sea, even so some areas above here had 8 inches of rain causing mass flooding. If it changes direction and comes inland we could end up getting stuck somewhere for a few days. Making our way up to Denham today, our first stop on the way was Hamelin Pool, which is a tiny place with nothing to see other than a historic telegraph station and Stromatolites, which are the oldest known living organism on earth, this area is home to one of only three places in the world where they’re found. Not very exciting they just look like rocks to me. Hamelin Pool population: 10 people, 2 dogs, 15 birds and 50000 flies.

We then made our way up to Shell Beach which has got to be one of the nicest beaches I’ve been on. Instead of sand the beach is made up of millions and millions of tiny white shells up to ten meters deep, stretching 120km up the coastline. It’s beautiful and totally deserted. The seawater is crystal clear and after swimming out at least 300 meters it was still only waist deep. With snorkels and mask on the sea bed looked awesome, the sunlight shining through the ripples of the sea and reflecting off the shells, picture perfect. No fish to report until swimming back to shore when I saw what looked like something coming towards me, at first I thought it was just a reflection but as I got closer I could make out what looked like a pair of eyes looking at me from under the shells ahead. And then I spotted it’s tail it was a huge sting ray, I floated around it for a bit and then it shot off into the distance. We then moved on closer to Denham where again we found another nice beach for some more snorkelling.

In Denham we done a cyclone check, it’s disappeared but some of the roads further north are still closed due to flooding, should be sorted by the time we get there. Checked out the local National Park, nothing exciting although we see a few wild emus on the way back. We then found a place called Eagles Bluff, some nice views over the coastline and further down is a blue lagoon which we are going to camp near, proper outback style. Just us and the fight with nature, you got it, the poxy flies.

A windy night the tent was all over the place, I ended up sleeping in the car, and how Hans slept in the tent I don’t know. A short drive to the Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort on the famous Dolphin Beach which is part of the Shark Bay World Heritage Area and the only place in Australia where wild dolphins visit to swim with you for free, they don’t do tricks or anything, they are just fed a few fish in the mornings and are totally wild. They have for some reason been visiting the shallows of the shore for over 40 years.

Got some wicked pictures and then snorkelled out to see if we could have a swim with them. No luck, well they might have been swimming around us, we just couldn’t see them, the water was so cloudy I could barely see 4ft in front of me, Never mind. We then hired a couple of kayaks and kayaked right around the coastline for some red sand / rock cliffs. The iron content in the sand makes it so hot that when trying to run up it, I managed about 4 steps before turning around and running with the soles on my feet on fire into the sea, a few attempts and we got there in the end, Seriously HOT. A late lunch and into the resorts pool and hot tub area to chill out, I have had enough sun for one day. Whilst eating dinner we got chatting to an Aussie guy called Joey and ended up drinking Toohey’s with him outside his chalet until the early hours of the morning.

A few hours sleep and I know I had a few beers last night, where is my water bottle? Down to the beach to see the dolphins again and then it’s off for the 300km drive up to Carnarvon. Nothing to see, just the road ahead, the blue sky and dry flat land on either side. 300km and we only past 9 cars going in the opposite direction and two others heading our way. 41 degrees today, a nice day for a long drive ha.

Carnarvon is a ghost town with just a few Abos hanging around giving it attitude. For us it was just a fuel and shopping stop before continuing on up to Gnarraloo Bay, what a mission, 150km along what’s meant to be a 4x4 only track, most of which runs through a sheep station, there were a few very near misses with kamikaze sheep, and I lost off how many cattle grids we crossed. This really is the middle of nowhere. When we eventually got to the bay it was about 4pm, and after being sat in the car all day I would have swam in piss so long as it was cold.

It’s really weird, you take three steps into the sea and you’re on the reef, pretty bloody dangerous if you didn’t know it was there. Snorkels on and I can just about to see my hand in front of my face, the water is so cloudy. Kind of scary actually because you can’t see anything until all of a sudden there is a great big section of a reef in front of you, and it’s so close to the surface you can’t swim over it. Didn’t see too much but then how could we with this visibility. Walking along the beach back to the car we see a really funny looking crab, it was bright yellow with huge eyes; it looked more like something you will see in a cartoon. A mission back along the track and we stopped for a night on a place called Quobba, virtually on the beach front, no breeze at all, it’s roasting, it’s going to be a sweaty night.

A quick at the Quobba Blowholes, which unlike the ones at Albany are working and then it’s off for another 300km drive up to Coral Bay, which is basically just a small tourist spot (one big caravan park) and home to the largest fringing coral reef in Australia, the Ningaloo Reef. With the car in the caravan site we walked along the beach about 1km, swam out to the reef (about 100m) and then with the current just snorkelled back to the bay.

Definitely the best and most amount of coral I have ever seen, but nothing to exciting in the old fish department, although I did see my first 2 small reef sharks. Back at the caravan side for lunch and you do not know how hot it is, I’m sure it’s hotter then yesterday. The side has got outside showers and I’ve lost count how many I’ve had just to cool down and get rid off the damn flies, it works for all of about 2 minutes then instead of dripping with water I’m dripping with sweat.

There is only one thing for it, back into the sea. Well it didn’t take me too long to loose Hans and so I thought I would swim out to see how far the reef actually goes. Unbelievable, it’s something else, the further out you go the better it gets, so many more shapes and colours. I’m blown away; it is literally a garden of never ending coral. When I looked back to the beach I could barely see it, xxxx knows how far out I am (quite dangerous really) the waves are getting a lot bigger and the reef is far from ending. Awesome but it is time for me to start making my way back in. My first turtle, so cool, I followed it for ages. I kept diving down and swimming alongside it but every time I put my hand out to touch it, it would speed up. Wicked. See an octopus which then hid amongst the coral and then a big spotty fish that didn’t seem to move.

I was eventually virtually back on the shore when another snorkeller called me over to have a look at something under a boat. At first all I saw was a group of fairly big grey fish. But then I see it, WOW, by far the biggest fish I’ve ever seen and it’s just sitting under the boat. It’s massive, it looks like a huge gold fish but is black, about 2.5meters long and 3-4 times the size of me, I stayed there for ages just watching it and diving down along side it. Apparently it’s a Queensland Groper. Hans has got to see this, so I ran back to the caravan site to find him and to my surprise it was still there when he got there, wicked. What a quality day, and at last I started to cool down, by that I mean it’s now 30 degrees instead of 40 degrees plus.

Manta Ray Tour Day today. Met the group and the crew then it was out on the boat to cruise looking for manta rays with a little help from a spotter plane above. Manta Rays are a huge harmless ray which at there biggest can measure 7 to 9 meters across, weigh up to two tonnes, and swim 60kph. The first sighting was a group of three together but the water visibility is in inches rather then meters so it was off to find some more. Found one, snorkels on and we are into the water with the guide, they are so fast and so big, I was the only one to keep up with the guide and so I was the only one to get to see this particular manta. We soon lost it though and my legs are now pumped up to the max, looking back I couldn’t believe how far we had swum in such a short time.

Back on the boat and off to find some more, a couple more times getting in and out the water, being wild animals you just can’t predict what they are going to do and when they decide to go, they are gone. Some more cruising and at last we found a couple that were being more cooperative, we must have spent about 20min into the water snorkelling around them before they took off, pretty impressive to see up close. Back on the boat for a snack and a cruise through a protected turtle area (no swimming allowed just observing from the boat). We then stopped at a section of reef for an hour snorkel around a reef shark area. We only saw 4 sharks but the coral formations are just out of this world, I’m getting a lot better at diving down now, I’m starting to feel like a fish, why scuba dive when I can free dive just as far. Anyway back to the boat again and off to another area which I think was probably the highlight of the day, crystal clear water, awesome coral and swimming with a turtle, this one was so slow and so not bothered about us being around him. I was diving down and swimming alongside and underneath it, I could have kissed it if I wanted too, it was so close, awesome.

I think I need to start thinking about buying an underwater camera; I’m going to need it next January when I go back to Thailand. What a wicked day but unfortunately it’s now time to start to make our way back to the bay. I was chatting to the skipper and I mentioned the big black fish from yesterday, he sad that it has been sitting under that one particular boat, whenever it’s in the bay for the last 15 years. He sad the fish is 2.2m long and weighs at least 200kg, apparently relatively small for a Queensland Groper. The boat is there again and so is the fish, we had to go for another look. A nice shower then in the car and off up to Exmouth. What a nature fest, we thousands of termite mounds, a prickly ant eater (basically a giant hedgehog with highlights), a snake which I think Hans flattened, flying foxes and xxxx knows how many kamikaze kangaroos, and added to that little lot of Australian night time driving hazards, there is a grass hopper somewhere in the car which keeps landing on us.

Spent the night in the Cape Range National Park which is a section of coastline which runs along another part of the Ningaloo Reef. It is so hot that there is only one place to be, in the sea. There is a few different bays in the park and so we went to Lakeside Bay which is apparently one of the better. There is a lot of warning signs around about strong currents and rips in the area, they’re not wrong trying to stay in one place is bloody hard work, you just get dragged down the coast.

The main reef line here is about 1km out which in normal conditions wouldn’t be a problem, but I’m not going to chance it with this current, by the time I get out there and swim back again I’ll probably end up on the coast of Indonesia. Snorkelled out about 300 to 500 meters and didn’t really see anything apart from a few little clusters of coral, a few tropical fish, and a funny looking brown and white spotty puffer fish. Pretty pants compared to Coral Bay. Swimming back we see 2 big grey spiky backed sting rays, I’m guessing at least 1.5m across, we stayed with them for ages but all they done was sit on the bottom turning up sand. They didn’t move, I even dived down next to them expecting them to swim off, but they didn’t, I’m guessing they have got good reason to be fearless and so thought better of touching them. Another 40 degrees plus again, putting clothes on is pointless they just stick to ya.

Being unimpressed with the snorkelling we then drove into Exmouth which is basically a small, ridiculously expensive town with very little to offer. The only good thing about it is that it is the only place since leaving Perth where there aren’t any flies; things must be bad if even the flies don’t want to stick around. Exmouth is pants, so it’s off to our next stop, the Karijini National Park, the trouble is, the highway inland to get to it is still flooded and so we have got to drive up around the coast through Karratha towards Port Hedland then down to it. At least an extra 6 hours of driving and so we’re leaving now. We stopped for the night at an insect infested roadhouse 100km before Karratha. I could count the amount of cars we passed on my fingers.

What a hot sweaty night, 40 degrees in the day and at least 30 in the evening, I had sweat running down my face just lying down trying to get to sleep, horrible. Out of a shower and I’ve got to sweats again, it’s so humid, I’m drinking gallons of water and still my pee is yellow which means is not enough, crazy.

A whole day spent driving and you can tell that there has been a lot of rainfall around this area as everything is so nice and green compared with the dry yellow scrub further south. A good seven hours before eventually arriving at the Karijini National Park, it’s to late to do anything so we just set up camp for a night in one of the two camp sites within the park.

Karijini is WA’s second largest national park covering over 600,000 hectares. Millions of years of erosion have cut through the red Pilbara landscape to form spectacular gorges, waterfalls and rock pools. Unfortunately most of the roads within the park are unsealed and due to the cyclone and heavy rain fall are still closed, but that is another story. While I was at the front of the car this morning I noticed one of the front tyre was completely worn on the inside edge with all the inside cords hanging out and virtually no rubber left. The tyre on the other side is also worn on the inside edge, bur not as bad, a couple of blowouts waiting to happen, and so with most of the park closed it’s off for the 100km steady drive to the small local mining town of Tom Price to find a garage and get it checked out.

Obviously the wheels are well out of alignment. All in all it turns out that it needs new tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings and obviously new tyres and realignment. A nice little wedge out of Hans’s pocket. The tyres can be done today; the rest is being done tomorrow as the parts have got to be sent up overnight from Perth. Back at the national park and off for a 6km walk through one of the gorges, the route is actually closed due to high water levels but we’re not going to stop a little thing like that stop us, if we get wet, who cares. And we did, lots of jumping, climbing and hanging on the side of the gorge as well as crossing the water a few times which meant getting wet feet.

We eventually ended up at a little waterfall and a rock pool and so obviously had to have a swim. Whilst swimming another group of people who had entered the gorge another way see us in the water and so got in them selves. A little later, whilst dripping dry on the rocks, I spotted a big snake in the water at the side of the pool, I shouted out to everyone and they were out of the water in an instant, ha ha. The snakes then slivered up the rocks straight towards me and Hans, it’s at least 2 meters long. I think it liked us because it hung around for a few pictures and then we started touching it.

Seeing us playing with the snake, one of the blokes from the group came over and asked if he could touch it. With him being on a lower level of rocks then us I grabbed the snake and held down towards him, he xxxx himself, ha ha. Get it away from me he was saying as he quickly moved back, what’s the matter with him, it’s only a water python. Anyway with the fun over it’s back to the camp site for dinner with the flies and another early night.

Back into Tom Price to get the car sorted out and 15km outside the town we run out of petrol – ha ha. Hans started walking leaving me with the car to flag someone down. About 15min later and the first car to pass stopped, I explained the situation and asked if they could pick Hans up as they pass him and run him into town, No Worries, mate.

Less than an hour later he’s back with a can of petrol, sweet. With the car in the garage we then spent the day hanging around Tom Price town, it’s tiny and with nothing to do we spent most of the day in the library typing our diaries and downloading pictures. With the car all sorted we then drove to a camp spot for the night, definitely the worst one so far, it’s along side a recently flooded river, mosquito paradise.

Early start as always and we are off to climb Mt. Bruce, which a 1235m is WA’s second highest mountain. It was a good hard uphill walk which also involved some scrambling and climbing. At the top I wasn’t overly impressed with the view, just lots of green and red mountains with a mine in the middle.

My enjoyment came more from the hard work and exercise getting up there, I’m sure we must have set a new record. After a quick chill out at the top we then had to walk all the way back down, which I found quite long and boring. Back at the car and a couple of sweaty messes and it’s off for another swim in the python rock pool, I could sit on that waterfall all day long.

Hans left before me with the car leaving me to walk a short way back to the camp site. Do you think I could remember the way, no chance; we had a map last time. I must have walked around for three hours; luckily I had plenty of water with me. Then just as I was preparing to spend the night in one of the smelly toilets scattered about all over the park, I by pure luck found him. Thank xxxx for that.

Rain last night and so with no sign of any of the closed roads within the Karijini reopening we are leaving and heading towards Broome. A kangaroo burger stop in Port Hedland, our first bit of meat since leaving Perth, and than a quick stop at Eighty Mile Beach along the way which is definitely not one of the best beaches in Australia, OK for a wash though. Back on the road and after covering 750km of highway through wast flatland we stopped for the night 220km south of Broome.

Without a doubt the hottest most humid night so far, I had a towel next to me to constantly wipe the sweat pouring from me whilst just lying there trying to get asleep. That was shortly followed by thunder, lightning and rain throughout the night. Luckily being unable to get the tent pegs in we have got the tent under a picnic shelter and tied off to the picnic tables and drums of water, so it was a dry night. Without the shelter the tent would have been flooded and we would have ended up in the car. 7.00am it’s still raining and the camp area is pretty water logged, hopefully the highway to Broome isn’t flooded.

Back on the road and it all seems to be ok, and looking a lot brighter towards Broome. Into crocodile and box jelly fish territory now. First impressions of Broome, a really nice small city, more like a town really, a proper little backpacker place and very quite at the moment, unfortunately no hot totty floating around. Checked in at the Cable Beach Caravan Park, check out the swimming pool, it’s more like a lake, that’s us sorted for the next couple of hours, it’s so humid. Later in the afternoon we went to the Malcolm Douglas Crocodile Park (or should I say farm) for a croc feeding tour. Not as good as I’d heard and definitely more of a tourist trap than anything else, although a good insight into how the crocs behave and what they’re capable of. It’s a shame to think that they’re being farmed like chickens, and when I asked, they denied pumping them full of steroids to speed up growth, Yeah right.

As with all tourist traps there is a small shop on the way out where they sell crocodile belts, bags, and jewellery etc. We bought some crocodile meat for dinner, apparently it’s like chicken. It’s nice, it looks like chicken and is probably more like chicken then any other meat, but the taste is totally different. Another seriously humid night, great!

6 months I’ve been on the road today. How do I feel?

Welcome to Australia, a flat, dry, humid, fly, insect infested land where a large Mc'Donald's meal is cheaper than a salad roll from a bakers, and where 2 litres of coca cola is cheaper to buy than 2 litres of water. In 20 years time the government will be wondering why the chubby kids of today have turned into fat obese adults with no teeth. America in the making!

South East Asia made me realize just how lucky I am to be English, Australia is making me realize what a beautiful country I live in and that there really is no place quite like home. Don't get me wrong I’m having a good time and enjoying what I am doing but the way I feel at the moment I could quite easily get on a plane tomorrow, fly home, start work the following day, and think nothing of it. Could I have done that leaving Asia? No Way.

The best piece of advice I was given before I left home was "Do not rush Asia to get to Australia" The Dude was spot on. I don't think I rushed Asia but xxxx I miss it. Trying to explain to people who haven't been there what's so good about it is just so hard, you need to see it and experience it to believe it. It’s just so different, it’s got so much character, and the feeling you get when you are there is just incredible, it’s so alive, so electric. You know you’re alive when your in Asia. Some people don't like different or the unfamiliar, I loved it.

Australia from what I have seen so far is a nice country, but that is it, that's all it is. I think it’s so over rated. I feel like I’m just going from National park-National Park, Nice beach-beach, sunset - sunset. What is so special about it? You just go from one nice place to another, taking pictures of so called amazing views and scenery. Personally I think the writers of the travel books should get on a plane and check out North Wales, Devon, Ireland and Scotland, That is what I would call amazing views, and I haven't even started on Europe, what about Prague, Italy, and Switzerland. Apart from the size, weather, and wildlife, it is so like home. So normal! With the exception of diving with Great Whites in Adelaide and the Great Barrier Reef, what is there here that I cant do at home? What in Australia apart from expensive adrenalin thrills, like jumping out of an airplane is really going to get my heart racing? What here is really going to make me think? And what here is going to touch me in such a way that it stays with me forever?

In 6 months not once have I felt homesick, and apart from 1 phone call from my old girl, not once have I spoke to anyone from home. With that said, I’ve noticed that over the last week or so I have actually for the first time since leaving started to think about my life back home. Not about my close friends so much, true friends will be there forever. But more about silly things like work and how my not so little apprentice is getting on, I miss the team, about the boys and the team spirit in the boxing gym, and about my little sister behaving herself ha ha.

So what has caused me to start suddenly thinking about home? Is it the long journeys and time spent travelling from place to place? I don't think so. In Asia Christy and me did some seriously long slow bus journeys but not once did I think about home. If we weren’t chatting or reading Christy would have his ipod in and I would just be sat there staring out of the window taking it all in, lost in thought about all the amazing people that I was lucky enough to meet, and the stories they had to tell. At the moment Australia just isn't giving me anything to think about like Asia did, it’s just so normal and feels so easy. To me travelling is what I did in South East Asia, this just feels like a long holiday.

With all that said, this is my dream. For as long as I can remember I have dreamt about travelling Australia, not Asia or any other country, just Australia. The trouble with dreams is that unless you make them reality, dreams is all they will ever be, and you will never know any different. So at the moment Australia doesn't seem to be what I thought it would be. That doesn't matter to me because South East Asia topped anything I could have possibly ever dreamt about Australia. That doesn't mean that I’m going to give up and stop following the one thing that I have been dreaming and talking about doing for so many years. It won’t be, but even if Australia turned out to be the worst thing I have ever done, no matter what, I will see it through till the end. By the time I leave Australia I will be able to say that I have pretty much been around the whole country. And only then will I truly know what I think of it. At the moment I’m looking at this as a once in a lifetime opportunity, realistically, from what I have experienced here so far I can honestly say that I cant ever see myself coming back, and so what I do now is what counts. When I leave I will have no regrets about rushing, missing something, or leaving early, and it will be time to start chasing another dream.

Old people generally don't regret the things they have done. They regret the things they never done.

Some serious rain last night, with the front of the tent open by the time we woke up and realized, the front of the tent was flooded. With the rain just pouring down the tent eventually started leaking all over, the floor was completely wet, we still managed to sleep in our wet sleeping bags until the morning though. In the morning we found out that our tent wasn't the only one to leak, one guy told us how he had so much rain pouring in his tent that he actually got up, went outside, and dug a trench around his tent to stop the water pouring in ha ha.

Spent most of the day chilling out in the pool, checked out the famous Cable Beach which is voted as one of the top 5 beaches in the world. No doubt about it, it’s a nice beach, but definitely not even in the top 5 of the beaches I have seen, let alone the world. I think it’s more famous for its sunsets and camel rides than anything else. Whilst on the beach I left my bank card on the dash of the car, when I got back the heat had made it bend in the middle and the corners roll up. O dear, not much chance of using that again. Back on the road again tomorrow and being joined by a German girl, Shanina, for our journey through the Kimberley's and up to Darwin.

Some tit nicked my beard trimmer last night, the most annoying thing is the fact that it had my Oz plug adapter on it, never mind. All that poverty in South East Asia and not once did anything go walkies. Picked Shan up from her hostel and then on the way to the petrol garage to fuel up we ran out of petrol again, only this time about 50 meters away from the garage and so managed to roll the car up to the pump ha ha. On the road again and because of the heavy rain and more expected, most of the Kimberley's including the national parks are closed until at least the end of April.

Stopped at Fitzroy Crossing where in the information centre we were told that although the highway to Darwin is at the moment still open, parts of it are flooded. We were advised to get to Darwin, or at least past the victoria river bridge on the way, as soon as possible. At the moment it’s ok but they are expecting it to flood again very soon, This time last year when it flooded the bridge and highway were 9m under water for 3 weeks. Hans had a quick cool down in a section of flooded side road, I couldn't be bothered, and then it was back on the highway.

We ended up stopping for the night in a caravan park in Halls Creek, a small town with a population of less than 4000, 95% of which are Aborigine. According to the guy in the caravan park, this area is surrounded with dry (drink free) Aboriginal communities, but with there being a pub here, a large number of them come into Halls Creek to drink, and then usually end up fighting amongst themselves. We could hear their noise and shouts from within the tent until the early hours of the morning.

Another day spent mainly on the road which included driving through two flooded sections of highway which has literally been turned into rivers. Luckily, at the deepest the water was only about 8 inches deep. We also had a blow-out on one of the back tyres and with the spare on it was back on the road. We stopped for the night in Kununurra, a new tyre and a quick look around the small town, not much here, just lots of Abos sitting under trees drinking. What was left of the afternoon was spent in the caravan park swimming pool.

A nice swim in the pool, then of to the Mirima National Park. Unlike the others we have been to this one is tiny, consisting of only three walking routes, the longest being 800 meters. Again all it is is red cliffs, ancient rock formations and view points. I can honestly say Western Australia and all of its so called beautiful National Parks are boring me silly. I’m totally running out of enthusiasm for it now. I’m taking pictures of red cliffs and funny looking trees just for the sake of taking pictures, it’s pathetic. If this is all Western Australia has got to offer it’s no wonder the majority of travellers miss it and head straight to Sydney, at least I can say I’ve done it and didn’t like it. Old rocks, flat land and red soil are good to see for the first time, and different from normal, but day after day it’s just not doing it for me.

Anyway, back on the road and a last goodbye Western Australia and into Northern Territory where the time is 1.5h in front and the number of flies has seriously reduced. Next stop was the Keep River National Park, I’m so glad most of it was closed and so after a quick walk, a bit of lunch, it was back on the road. The way I feel at the moment I just want to get up to Darwin, down the middle to Adelaide and then around to the East Coast, meet Kelly and Niamha, dive the Barrier Reef and get the hell out of here as quick as possible. I now know why only 20 million people live here. Spent the night in the mosquito infested Gregory National Park.

Another wet night. Wet and overcast today but it’s off to the Nitmiluk National Park for some bush walking around the gorges. Most of the walking routes are closed so after a quick walk up to yet another lookout point over another gorge we decided to start making our way up to Darwin in search of some better weather. Darwin, another one of Australia’s very nice, very modern cities, there is nothing here that really makes it stand out, it’s just a nice city. A lot bigger then I expected and kind of like a mini Perth. A walk around the city and I ended up buying a 20 Gigabyte MP3 Player, which Hans is going to put music on from his laptop, wicked. Another wet night in the caravan park. We met a Canadian couple today who are cycling on a tandem with a trailer around Australia. Over 12000km since July, that’s adventure, quality.

Nothing to report, just spent the day hanging out in the city, I was impressed with the Museum and Art Gallery of Darwin and Northern Territory, very well laid out and very interesting.

A seriously wet night in the tent, thunder lightening and rain all night, the tent was seriously flooded this time. 5am and we were up and hanging out in the toilet, the only place that was dry. A trip to the Territory Wildlife Park, ok, not great though, more walking then anything else, not as good as the Caversham Wildlife Park in Perth. We are staying in a hostel tonight the dry out our stuff and it looks like it’s going to be another wet one.

Wicked sleep didn’t hear the storm. Apparently this march is the wettest march ever recorded. Litchfield National Park today, definitely one of the better ones. Huge water falls, rock pools to swim in and some seriously strong currents, wicked. And check out the massive termite mounds some of which are over 6 meters high and over 50 years old. Pretty impressive to think that they are build by tiny termites (white ants) and let each grain of dirt is held in place by mucus and excrements to form a solid concrete construction full of tiny tunnels, amazing to think that termites are that clever. It’s weird how it’s dry and roasting all day then wet and stormy all night. Another night in the hostel.

Off to the Aboriginal Lands of the Kakadu National Park, one of the few World Heritage areas listed for both cultural and natural heritage, and home to one of the most extensive collections of rock art in the world. Some real Australian history, Aboriginal history. 60,000 years they have been here, we only discovered and took over Australia 200 years ago. Lots of bush walks eventually leading to large rocks and cliffs with very old, faded Aboriginal paintings. It’s not that hot but boy is it humid, non stop sweating. Spent the night in a wicked bush hut type thing within one of the Kakadu Caravan parks.

More walking for Hans, walking in this humidity, through forest which all looks the same to get to a faded piece of Aboriginal rock art just doesn’t do it for me, I’m staying put with the old MP3-Player. And xxxx me, is it humid. My t-shirt is soaked just sitting down listening to music. Time to start heading south towards Alice Springs. A food and fuel stop in Katherine then south to a small town called Mataranka, population 250.

It’s wet again so we are looking for a room, the hostel that was here has closed down which leaves to motels which are not willing to lower there prices, there loss it’s not as if they have got people queuing up. In the only pub here, a local guy with the strongest Outback Australian accent I’ve ever heard told us we can get a room in a pub in the next town along (77km away). The town is called Larrimah and consists of a petrol station, a tiny WWII museum, a caravan park and the Pink Panther Bush pub where we got a room. Proper weird pub, pets everywhere, dogs, birds, fish, turtles, snakes, a crocodile, mosquitos and there is even a kangaroo hopping around the bar. Population of this town: 20.

On the road by 8am and that’s where we stayed until reaching Alice Springs at 7.30pm. Stopping only for fuel and lunch at Tennant Creek and then again at a place called Devils Marbles. Just off the Stuart Highway the Devils Marbles are genuine natural geological oddity, and huge rounded rock boulders which are by the local Warunungu Aborigines believed to be the eggs of the rainbow serpent. Pretty cool, very strange and good fun climbing them.

One word to describe today’s journey, desert, apart from the two stops, the road, sky and the odd suicidal bird that is all we have seen all day. Spent the night in Annie’s Place backpacker Hostel, really enjoyed it, meeting and talking to lots of different people. The Northern Territory has been so much better than Western Australia and I think I’m getting the feel for the hostels.

A day chilling out in Alice Springs, the City in a desert! A nice, very small City centre with a proper backpacker feel to it. One thing we have noticed since entering the Northern Territory is how much nicer the local people are. The workers in the shops, hostels etc are all so much more friendly and talkative.

The hostel is wicked and so we are staying here again tonight. Met so many people, got a good group of lads in our dorm, and there is so many hot birdies to talk to and perv over ha ha. The best bit of the day was getting rid of Shanina, Hans was getting on really well with her until yesterday when he made a comment about lesbians, it must have touched a nerve ha ha. I’m glad anyway, I didn't even talk to her after the second day, thought she was rude from the start and a complete idiot. Bring back Sarah and Niamha. Camel lasagna for dinner, Beautiful! Later on in the evening I managed to turn the dorm into a bit of a gym.

Got down and started doing a few press-ups and a couple of other lads joined in. Apparently I am the first person they have seen exercising in hostels, they always want to, but find it awkward in hostels because of people looking at you and thinking your mad. xxxx that, do what you want, and if people have got nothing better to do then let them look, they could always join in. It was pretty good actually, lots of press-ups, hanging off the door frame doing pull ups, hand stands against the wall and all sorts, Wicked. Loving the hostels, and feel so much better about things than I did this time last week. Never quit, something new is always around the corner.

It’s free breakfast in the hostel so we have got to make the most of it and Hans wants to see how much I can eat ha ha, bring it on. The only person I know or have met that could out eat me on the rare occasion, is my brother. It’s got to be a new record, 12 slices of toast later and it has all gone, damn, I had my mind set on doing a whole loaf.

Alice Springs is a nice chilled out place but there isn't really that much to do here, it’s more of a stopover for arranging tours to the not so near local sights ie, Uluru (Ayres Rock). Off to Kings Canyon today (320km away) south west of Alice Springs, and being joined by a German guy called Bernie who we met last night. By the time we got to the canyon it was too late and too hot to start doing the 6km long walk, so we just took a few pictures from a view point, and for the first time since entering the Northern Territory, the over friendly flies are back. Another blow-out, on the other back tyre this time, the second one so far. Let’s hope we don't have another one before we find a garage, which being in the middle of nowhere, wont be here. The only place to stay here is in the overpriced camping site of the Kings Canyon Resort.

Not only was the Kings Canyon Resort campsite the most expensive one we have stayed on, it was also one of the worst. 6am in the morning and it turned into a construction site, tractors, diggers, and trucks re-tarmacing the roads within the resort. The noise didn't really bother me as I was already up, but that's not the point. Then whilst having breakfast in the pathetic excuse of a camp kitchen we had diggers and trucks racing around blowing dust and crap everywhere. I’m not one to complain but it’s going to be mentioned when we check out. Not only have we stayed on better free camp sites, it would have been quieter if we camped on the side of the highway.

Check out time, and there is a fit birdie at reception. I told her that I didn't feel comfortable complaining to her as I didn't think it fair or part of her job, and so asked to speak to the manager. A complete waste of time but it felt good, luckily for her the manager was a woman, if it had of been a qeezer, I would have probably dragged him over the counter by the throat, and then face in the tarmac around the campsite site. I wasn't even wound up, I just wanted to tell them what I thought of their resort in relation to the others we have stayed on. The attitude of the manager however did wind me up. When I asked how they could justify charging what they do in relation to the quality of the campsite provided, she said that you have to stay here because there is nowhere else to stay. Im sorry, did I hear that right, that's how you justify your prices, poor service, and construction site camp site, because people don't have a choice, that's really nice customer service. Well, she said, if you want to complain you can put it in writing and send it to our main office in Sydney. What good is that, we are in the middle of Australia, in the middle of nowhere, and you want me to write a letter to Sydney, Great. Unfortunately it was a case of saying, Thank you very much xxxx you too, and we walked out. KINGS CANYON RESORT YOU ARE NAMED AND SHAMED!

We then did the 6.5km walk around the  Kings Canyon. Proper good exercise, what can I say, Awesome. A wicked walk and although it’s more red rocks, its beautiful, probably the best on land thing I have done and seen so far in Australia, Wicked. We then drove on our dodgy smaller spare wheel, 450km to Uluru (Ayres Rock). At 348m above the ground and 9.4km around the base, Uluru is the second largest monolith (single piece of rock) in the world. Not only is it Australia's single biggest tourist attraction, it is also Australia's biggest rip off. 25 dollars per person to enter the National Park (just imagine how much money that generates each year), all the other national parks in the Northern Territory are free. 6 pound an hour internet access, 2 pound for a litre of bottled water, and another night of more expensive camping (expensive in comparison).

Uluru, the Daddy of the red rocks is without a doubt impressive, but it comes to something when a country’s biggest tourist attraction is a rock, at the end of the day it is literally just a big rock in the middle of a flat desert, and guess what, I cant stop taking pictures of it, Great. Spent most of the night chatting to a couple of birds, Clare from France and Matarina from Germany! Oh, and I forgot to mention, no chance of getting a new tyre, we have got to wait for one to be sent out, should be here by Friday morning hopefully.

4 hours sleep, 5am and the 5 of us are up and off to see the sun rise over Uluru. Pretty pants really as it wasn't anywhere near over the rock. Iv decided now but the question I was asking myself yesterday and debating last night with miss Germany (who is dead against climbing it) is do I climb it, or just walk around it. The reason being is that it is by Aboriginal people a very sacred place and they really don't wont people to climb it, not only because it is sacred but because they also feel responsible and saddened when people hurt themselves, on average one person a year dies on the rock. Now I respect the Aborigines and there predicament, I know what we have done over the years by taking over their country and really messing them up. I also respect and appreciate that it is a sacred site, but at the same time, if im honest, not only is it a huge tourist attraction but the whole thing just feels like one big money spinner, being on Aboriginal land they get a percentage of every entry fee paid. This is the first place in Australia that I have been to where since arriving I have not seen a single Aborigine.

Now I would think that being their rock and their land they would be here working on the resort etc (giving it a real cultural sort of feel) but instead they are nowhere to be seen. To me it seems like they are happy to let us do the work and run the resort etc. Obviously there are 2 sides to every debate, Why should they work if they don't have to, either way they are getting the money. I accept that, but I also believe that if they really want us to respect and understand them, the elders should be here setting example to there young and future generations. They cant just expect to sit back and get a free run forever, what's done is done, not nice I know but get on with your lives, future generations cant keep blaming us for something that happened generations ago.

It’s a big generalization to make but sitting under trees drinking and sniffing petrol isn't going to get them anywhere. If they really don't want people to climb the rock and they want it to be respected and taken seriously as a sacred place then they would remove the chains that are running up it, and drop the park entry fees. If they think I’m paying 25 dollars to take a picture or walk around it, they can think again. At the end of the day, I don't climb churches at home and I didn't climb temples in Asia, but I didn't pay 25 dollars to see them either. As you have probably guessed by now, I’m climbing it.

Immediately after the sun rise we then drove around to the start of the climb, the girls are waiting in the car. Trainers on and 4 litres of water on my back it’s time to get climbing. The first section and the steepest part of the climb has got chains running up it to assist you in pulling yourself up. We are not the first ones on the rock, there is a group of Japanese tourists in front of us. Not wanting random tourists in my pictures I had to have a little sprint passed them to take the lead. The pace is set now and there ain't no one getting in front of me, no way. It’s been a long time since I got to do some proper cardio work so when I get to do things like this I cant help but go for it, Awesome workout, it’s so steep. At the end of the chained section where it levels out a bit, it is then non stop up and down. One foot wrong, or if you slip or collapse on this rock, then you are going to roll all the way back down to the car park, there is nothing here to stop or slow you down, See ya later. 1 third of the people who climb it give up, and thousands of others are rescued from the rock each year, mainly through fear of the walk back down. Hans is looking like a little ant in the distance and I have got some fella and his girlfriend on my tail, fair play to em.

First to the top and what a climb. I can now say that it is so much more than just a big rock in a desert. Sacred or not, it needs to be climbed to be appreciated, from up here it is a totally different rock. Awesome, and there is not a picture in the world that could do it justice. 25 minutes it took me to get to the top, if this was at home I would run up here everyday, what a workout. No flies up here, either they couldn't keep up with the pace or it’s just too windy for em. It is seriously windy up here, no sign of a breeze down the bottom though. Obviously going down isn't as physically hard as climbing up, but I can see why people might panic, like I said, if you go, your going all the way. Uluru rush hour on the way down, lots of Japanese with white gloves on slowly making there way to the summit. The perfect and best time to do it, right after sunrise.

Anyone who attempts the climb after 9am must be crazy, it must be so hot. If the temperature goes over 36 degrees before 11am then the rock is closed, it can also be closed for being too windy, too wet, or too slippery. Definitely doing it again tomorrow, maybe it’s a little disrespectful doing it again after already doing it, but it’s such a good climb. Personally, as a landmark, I don't think it beats Kings Canyon, but the climb up it is probably the most physical thing I will get to do in Australia, and for that reason I loved it.

A group lunch and then it’s off to Kata Tjuta (The Olga's), another sacred site consisting of 36 steep sided domes. No climbing aloud here but there is a few walking tracks to follow. Obviously we did the longest and hardest walk, 7.5km, wicked scenery but im starting to feel quite rocked out at the moment, and with only 4 hours sleep I’m feeling pretty cream crackered!

Back at the campsite for some pool action and then dinner, we also met a Swiss mountain climber who done the climb in 27 minutes, quick, but not quick enough ha ha. See ya later girls.

Happy Birthday to me, for those of you who don't know, I was 25 again today. Another early one, definitely burning the old candle at both ends at the moment, and it’s not surprising that my legs are aching today, well, one of them anyway. Straight back on the rock and we are the first ones here, Hans and Bernie are walking around it, I’m going up it. Apparently in the Guinness Book Of Records the fastest climb of Uluru is by a New Zealand guy who completed it in 12 minutes, seriously quick but I don't doubt it can be done. For me I just want to wipe yesterday’s time off the table.

As soon as I started the climb I could feel the old legs aching from yesterday, No excuses, GO. My first stop was at the end of the chained section, reaching there my back was aching, my lungs felt like they were going to explode and my legs felt like jelly, Im not as fit as I was over 6 month's ago before I left but my recovery time is still so good. It’s so much windier today, could actually be quite dangerous. I beat yesterday’s time by 2 minutes, my new time, 23 minutes. I can honestly say that being in Australia I could not think of anything else I would rather be doing on my birthday, for me, this is it, this is what I love. What I have just done was awesome, and just look at the views. Some of you know, a lot of you don't. I’ve done a lot of drugs in my time but I can honestly say that there is no feeling in the world better than being physically fit.

Pushing yourself to absolute exhaustion, getting that second wind, feeling full of energy again, and feeling on top of the world. People who have never reached that sort of fitness level won’t know what I’m talking about but trust me, No drug comes close, and the best bit, not only is it free, it’s in your body all the time. A quick recovery and then it’s down I go, rush hour again and it’s not even peak season at the moment. I was up and back down again inside 50 minutes. I feel so good, I’m buzzing, I honestly feel like I could do it again. If I was to miss anyone today it would be Danny, Natt, and Ardeep, there is no way they would let me beat them up that rock, and no way I would let them beat me. With that determination, my fitness level 6 month's ago, the team spirit, and pushing each other all the way, I have no doubt that we would be up that rock inside 20 minutes. I feel so good, I cannot think of a better way to start the day. Without a doubt the best thing I have done so far in Australia, and you’re all thinking that sounds Crazy ha ha.

A new tyre in what could be the slowest working car repair garage in the world, and then on completion it turned out that they have put the wrong tyre on. Wake Up. Back on the road and we are heading south towards Adelaide. A big thumbs up to the Northern Territory, top to bottom has been wicked. Into Southern Australia now, the driest state and another time change. Stopped for the night at a roadhouse in the middle of the desert at a place called Marla, there is nothing else here, not even a picnic table to eat on. Some beautiful spaghetti with sun dried tomatoes and mozzarella cooked by my little Italian chef, all that's missing is the cake ha ha.