Travelling / Backpacking / Flashpacking the World!

Been driving around a bit in the car, Kelly warned me about the road rage and the drivers over here, I thought im used to London so it can't be that bad. There's some serious attitude here, you drive along minding your own business or whilst waiting at lights and there's other drivers just staring at ya and giving ya dirty looks. I don't know or care what there problem is but whatever it is, it’s there problem, not mine. Don't get me wrong the majority of Australians are easy to talk to and very, very friendly, but there are enough xxxxxx idiots here too, it’s getting to the stage where I feel like I should start carrying something, all the trains during the day have got guards on, there nowhere to be seen of an evening though. I’m also finding Australia unbelievably expensive, everyone thinks that because its 2 dollars to the pound it must be cheap, Wrong. It’s 2 dollars to the pound but everything is 3 times the price, London prices minimum.

Apparently though Perth is actually more expensive than Sydney, maybe because, Fact - Perth city is home to more millionaires than anywhere else in the world, only time will tell. For example, a normal size Mars bar here costs 2.5 dollars, that's over a pound, there is a lot of cheap, fast, junk food available here but when it comes to buying proper food it is really expensive, don't get me started on how expensive fruit and veg is, Unbelievable. I can't believe it and it’s early days but from what I have seen of Australia so far its making England look good. So different to what I was expecting, and such a shame because its such an amazing country.

Anyway, I started job hunting and making a few calls, surprisingly there doesn't seem to be any lift work here, well not for me anyway. Had a couple of interviews for just labouring jobs, I actually got offered both jobs but chose the one that was more on a casual basis. Started work on Friday, it’s basically demolition work, cutting and knocking down walls in the Western Australia University. Hard sweaty work but I love it, I’ve been getting told to slow down all day, don't know why I was rushing, just used to being my own boss I guess, why be at work any longer than you have to. The guys I was working with were saying that they themselves don't go out in Northbridge anymore, they said you have only got to look at the wrong person and you will end up getting meat cleaver pulled out on ya, Nice. According to them Perth is having serious problems with people of other cultures, the police are virtually powerless and anyone who speaks up about it is declared a racist, Ummm that sounds familiar. A roasting weekend, 36 degrees Saturday and Sunday. I’ve got to start getting out at the weekends and checking out a few sights, just going to work, save, and train for a while

Worked on Monday. I’m really getting itchy feet now. If I was getting good money maybe I would stay but what's the point of coming all this way and working for half the money I would get at home, it’s not like I need it at the moment. If I’m gonna work I might as well fly home and do the job I love. This is such a big country with so much to see, why waste time working, I’ve got to get back on the road. I’ve planned where I want to go and am thinking about making a some posters to put up in a few hostels to see if anyone wants to join me and share the travel costs etc. Your not going to believe this, whilst checking out a few backpacker places in the city I come across a poster from an Italian guy called Hans who has got his own car and is going the exact route I had in mind and camping all the way, he is just looking for someone to join him and share the petrol costs and driving etc. I can’t believe it, I’m buzzing now, everything I have wanted to do since leaving has just worked out, I’m sure I’m the chosen one ha ha. Anyway, gave him a ring and I’m meeting him tomo night for a drink.

Early start, some lunch in a bag and I’m off to spend the day in Kings Park. Set in over 400 hectares, of which more than 2 thirds of which is natural bush land. Set on the south bank of the Swan river,  Kings  park is home to over 2500 Western Australia plant species and views over the city. What a park, it’s massive, it’s only a 15 minute walk away from the city centre but it is so peaceful. I just spent the whole day walking along various walking tracks through dry burnt bush land, glorious green fields and the parks botanic gardens.

Whilst sitting down eating lunch I got chatting to an older Australian guy, he totally agreed with my observations of Perth, Northbridge and the people in it, and said that it would be good if I shared my views on a radio station ha ha. He himself has lived all over Australia and said that Perth is the scariest place here. He said that the people here are different to the rest of Australia, because they are so far away from everything he said that the people (Australians) are ignorant. He also agreed that the Aborigines where not the problem, it’s the people from other cultures that come over with there demands and refuse to live by Australia's rules. 

Apparently Sydney and Melbourne like any major city have also got multi-cultural  problems, only on that side of Australia things are a lot different and a lot more controlled, the police have more power and the people tend to stick to there own little communities, where as here they are just everywhere (at night time anyway, there like animals hunting in packs, it’s weird but you don't see any where near as many during day). Like I said to him, call me racist but I honestly don't think that different races can mix, a certain amount of individuals can and do, but the majority is a different story. At the end of the day you don't put cats and dogs in the same cage for one reason, they just don't get along.

After a day in the park and chatting to a few other people along the way it was time to walk back into the city to meet Hans. A couple of beers and a good old chat and we are doing it. A three month road trip, the route being North up to Darwin, down the middle through Alice Springs to Adelaide and then around the south and south east coasts through Melbourne and around to Sydney. I told him in advance that I would probably leave him in Melbourne as I have got to visit Kelly and then if all goes well I would like to get across to Tasmania. We are leaving on the 1st of March, and as he is not working next week we are going to head south for a week first, after which that will then give me a few days back in Perth to see some sights. I can't wait, the buzz is back, and the best bit is I haven't got to buy anything, he has already got most the stuff, a tent, ground mats, sleeping bags, gas stove and cutlery, all we need is some pots and pans. What a result, he's then just going to sell the lot with the car when he gets to Sydney.

Done some work in an old peoples home Thursday and Friday. So sad. I feel sorry for the sane ones, most of the residents have lost there marbles and some of them might as well be dead, totally bed ridden, painfully skinny and weak, and unable to suck food through a straw. After all there years all they have got is a small square room, a bed, a chair, a wardrobe, and a table on wheels, along with a few family pictures. I hope I die before I get old.

During the week I booked a ferry for Saturday morning across to Rottnest Island and the plan was to return on Sunday evening. Known as Rotto by the locals the island is an A Class Reserve and which is supposedly home to some of the best beaches and bays in the world. The island itself is only 11km long and 4.5km wide, and the way to get around is by bicycle, there are no cars on the island. On the ferry on the way, going down the Swan river, we had 2 dolphins swimming along side us, Cool. On arrival the first thing I had to do was find somewhere to stay, not a chance, there is loads of accommodation here but not one spare bed on the island, the island is packed out with visitors this time of year and so everywhere is fully booked. That's cool, a few beers and the beech it is, well that was plan B anyway, although I was later found out from talking to a couple of girls who work on the island that the island is patrolled at night by Police and Rangers on bikes, sleeping on the beach is forbidden and anyone caught doing so is fined and kicked off the island. I ended up having to get the last ferry off the island, gutted. 

The little I saw of the island was Absolutely Beautiful and although it is primarily a tourist or get away island it is so well done, so peaceful and relaxed, near the pier there is also a small supermarket, a bakers, and a small but very good island museum featuring the islands history, shipwrecks and wildlife. Not at all like the tacky Sentosa island off Singapore.

Western Australia is the only place in the world home to Quokkas and they can be seen every where on the island. When the island was discovered by Dutch explorer Willem de Vlamingh in 1696 he called it "Rotte-nest" meaning rats nest, mistaking the Quokkas for huge rats. The name has stuck. Although they do look like a huge rat they are actually part of the Kangaroo family, on the mainland they are virtually extinct due to foxes and cats but as there are as yet no foxes or cats on the island there numbers can flourish. They are really cute and surprisingly tame, and there claim to fame is that they can survive without water, getting all there moisture from fleshy plants.

I spent most of the day just walking around in paradise. In the afternoon I went for a trip on an Underwater Explorer boat which is basically a boat with a glass bottom. Saw a few fish, a couple of really old shipwrecks, and a bit of coral. I think I was spoilt in Thailand, nothing I see here came anywhere close.

Early start Sunday, Hans and myself went to the Caversham Wildlife Park which has one of the largest collections of native animals in Australia. I really enjoyed it, as much as I don't like zoos I thought this place was so well done, and because the park itself is so huge the animals have got plenty of room to themselves, the only thing I wasn't keen on was seeing beautiful birds of prey in cages. We saw loads of Australian animals, Koalas, Quokkas, Emus, Dingoes, Echidnas, Tasmanian Devils, and we even got to hold a Wombat, and walk around freely in the Kangaroo area.

In the afternoon we then drove to Freemantle which is located on the Swan River 19km from Perth and is described as the world's best preserved 19th century seaport. What a beautiful place, so nice, clean and relaxed. Had a walk around a few of the many indoor markets and bought myself a proper Australian hat, 100% buffalo leather, got to fit in with the locals up north and trust me I’m gonna need it in the outback.

We then visited Freemantle Prison which is the largest and most intact convict built structure in Western Australia. Decommissioned as a maximum security prison in 1991, Freemantle prison was used continuously as a place of incarceration and punishment for almost 140 years, since 1992 the prison has established itself as a cultural heritage attraction. We did an hour and a half guided tour around the prison and it was so good, definitely a must if your in Freemantle. Lots of stories into prison life, solitary confinement, and other punishment techniques used and all only 15 years ago.

Only 2 types of people can work as guides in the prison, ex-prison guards or ex-convicts, and as much as I tried to find out which of the two he was, our guide didn't give too much away ha ha. We then had a roast dinner in one of the food courts in town and then I went back to Hans place for a drink before getting a train home. A very good and productive weekend, and I’ve got to admit Perth in general is a hell of a lot nicer (beautiful) than I first thought, Northbridge being the exception but then all cities have got there bad areas.

Heading South, a bit of running around in the morning getting a few essentials including a new twin hob camping cooker, and food shopping, lots of pasta, rice, tinned food, etc, and not forgetting the most important thing of all, plenty of water. We then drove to Albany which is 410km south of Perth. 90% of the journey was down the Albany Highway which is the busiest highway in South Western Australia, it’s so quite that at times we didn't see another car for 15-20 minutes at a time.

Not very much to see along the way, just a never ending road, lots of trees, fields of dry yellow grass, cattle, lots of nice green Parrot type birds, it’s so nice when you see them in the open as opposed to in a cage, and not forgetting the dead Kangaroos on the road side. There is going to be a lot more journeys like that when we start heading north to Darwin. We should have re-fuelled along the way but we wanted to see if we could make it on what we had, No Risk No Fun, it was close that's for sure, by the time we got to Albany the needle was past the red and nearly off the gauge, we made it. A quick re-fuel then into the first caravan site we came across, it’s getting dark and with the tent set up it was time to cook some pasta. On a campsite after dark there really isn't that much to do and so by 9pm we were tucked up in the tent. It’s actually raining outside.

Six hours sleep and at 3am in the morning I’m wide awake, freezing cold, and bored silly. A walk around the camp site and I ended up getting down and doing a few exercises to pass the time, a shower, and then at last it’s starting to get light. Brekki, and by 7.30am we were all packed up and on the road. The 1st stop in Albany was the Stony Hill Blowholes, if the sea is rough enough air and water come blasting out of the cracks in the rock formations at a speed of 187km per hour, it’s caused by the sea crashing into the cliff face and compressing air and water through the cracks. Unfortunately the sea wasn't rough enough for there to be water spraying out, however the air being pushed out is not only very noisy, its extremely powerful, whilst standing over one of the cracks the blast of air blew my hat clean off my head and about 10ft into the air.

From here we then drove around the coast to The Gap and The Natural Bridge. Both natural rock formations The Gap is a 24m deep gorge to the sea and the Natural Bridge is a huge granite bridge like a suspension. Some serious pressure and forces being put on that bad boy!

After lunch we drove to Walpole, the Valley of the Giant Tingle Trees, which can grow up to 60m high and measure up to 16m around the base. Constructed through the forest canopy is the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk, the bridge is 600m long and at its highest 40m above the ground, quite impressive. We then walked through the forest itself, which is where you really realize just how big these trees really are. A lot of the trees have got hollow trunks which on some of them you can actually walk through, the hollows are caused by fungi, insect attack, and fire (caused by lightning).

We then drove towards Pemberton to the Warren National Park, which is home to the Dave Evans Bicentennial tree which at over 75m high is the tallest fire-lookout tree in the world. The tree has got 2 platforms, the 1st at 25m and the 2nd at 75m above the ground, which are accessible by climbing a spiral of horizontal (occasionally loose) steel stakes which have been drilled into the trunk. If 75m doesn't sound high then come and have a look for yourself, less than a quarter of the people that visit the tree actually climb it. Having no fear of heights there was no way I wasn't going to climb it, and I actually ended up climbing it 3 times, once with Hans and my camera on the ground, again with my camera, and again later on for sunset but it was too cloudy. Awesome! What a climb and actually quite hard work. There are no safety precautions or anything here, all there is, is some mesh which runs up the outside of the stakes to stop you falling over the side, there is nothing to stop you falling between the stakes though and absolutely no one here to help if something did happen. From the steel tower at the top all you can see in all directions as far as the eye can see is the top of the forest canopy, the climb itself is so much better than the view.

You’re not supposed to but there is no one here to stop us so we set up camp in the park for the night, cooking and eating dinner in the parks picnic area. Another early night!

xxxx it’s cold of a night time, and again I’m up and out the tent by 4am. You can't beat getting up early, fresh cold air and the sound of birds and insects singing, that's just how it’s going to be for the next 3-4 months, Wicked! Brekki then on the road up to the Margaret River for a day of tantalizing the taste buds. We spent pretty much all day driving from place to place and doing free tastings of all the local delicacies including wineries, brewery's, 2 cheese factories (which were so good we went back twice) and a chocolate factory. Tried some very good Belgium and German beers, some excellent cheese that we couldn’t get enough of, and in the chocolate factory not only did we take advantage of the freebies, we also had a huge chocolate fondue with marshmallows, liquorice, biscuits, dates, apricots and honey comb. It was nice but way too much sticky sugar for me, I had to clean my teeth in the car park, you only get one set and at 25 with only 1 filling I’m not doing too bad. After all that we then stopped at a section of the Margaret River with a load of stale bread from the bakers up the road for some duck feeding, before driving to a campsite and setting up for the night. It’s going to be another cold one but at least we can make a fire here, if nothing else it will keep the mosquitoes away, it’s not doing much for the Kookaburra's though, noisy xxxxxx, and there are wild kangaroos everywhere, hopefully they won't fall over the tent in the night.

Whilst cooking breakfast we got chatting to a couple of fellow campers, and me being my cheeky self managed to get some free bacon, really nice and thick, not like the usual crap. When we told them our plans and what we were going to do over the next 3-4 months, they said that we are doing what people are dreaming about, and that we are going to see more of Australia in the next few months than most Australians see in a lifetime! It’s weird but when you’re out here actually doing it, it doesn't seem that big a thing. At the moment this is my life, and I love it. Packed up and down to the Margaret River mouth for a Bushtucker River Tour.

A wicked tour and really informal and interesting, canoeing down the river stopping at cultural sites along the way, learning the history of the river, and some trekking through the bush to visit some caves in which the Aborigines used to live. The river itself is really nice and totally unspoilt. We were also shown how the Aborigines used to use the different plants that grow along the river banks as health remedies etc, interesting stuff. Some more canoeing down the river and then we stopped at the rivers edge for a bushtucker lunch consisting of over 25 native bush foods, lots of different fruits and berries tasted as well as marinated emu, wild turkey, smoked kangaroo (which is like gammon), Quandong, Macadamia biscuit, and other wild fruits and river vegetables, and not forgetting the Whitchity grub pate which only I and 2 others would try, if they wasn't told what was actually in it they would have all eaten it and been none the wiser, it was really nice, but then I thought that all the food was nice, the old Abbo's know how to eat.

After the tour we then drove to Busselton which is a really nice seaside resort town with 30km of white sandy beaches along what's known as the Geographic Bay. Busselton is also home to the Heritage listed Busselton jetty (pier) which at 1841m long is the longest timber jetty in the Southern Hemisphere, started in 1865 it took 95 years to complete. The jetty itself is described as Australia's greatest artificial reef due to the many colourful corals, sponges, and fish living underneath.

Our plan was to snorkel from the beach all the way to the end of the jetty, nearly 2km out at sea is a long way but knowing that if anything happens I could just grab onto the jetty makes it a lot safer, and we would have done it if it wasn't for the water being so dam cold, I reckon we got about a third of the way out before climbing up onto the jetty and walking back to the beach, I’m freezing! There was some beautiful coral attached to the jetty timber and loads of fish down there but apart from the odd one or two they all seemed to be the same, yellow tails. No Great Whites to report. Back at our luxury campsite for a hot shower and some dinner and then a stroll up the beach for sunset, although unfortunately it wasn't over the jetty!

Last night was the coldest night so far, I can't believe the temperature drop since leaving Perth, especially of a night time. Brekki and then in the car for the drive back to Perth stopping at a roadside rest area on the way to cook some pasta for lunch. Back in Perth and at last it’s hot again. What a wicked few days, role on Wednesday, we're heading north.

I have added my thoughts for Australia to my Thoughts page!

37 degrees today, chilled out, and gym.

Killed myself in the gym today, 40 degrees outside. After dinner said goodbye to the guys, as I won’t see them in the morning.

Met up with Hans and Kim, did some shopping and then north to our first stop, the sand dunes on the way to The Pinnacles Desert within The Nambung National Park. We were told by the Information Point in Cervantes you can only get to them with a 4x4, Yeah right; we just pulled up on the roadside and trampled our way through a load of prickly scrub. Awesome pure white sand dunes the biggest being about 25ft high and 100 meters long, looking like a huge wave.

Our next stop was The Pinnacles Desert. Not as impressive as I thought it was going to be going by the way its bigged up and promoted by the tour operator back in Perth. Basically it’s a desert with thousands of limestone Pinnacles, ranging in size from tiny to up to 5 meters tall and 2 meters wide. They were formed thousands of years ago when ancient plant roots formed a weak cementation of calcite within the dunes, over the years the top sand has been blown and washed away leaving the hard limestone underneath exposed. Pretty cool and quite different but what is with the flies around here? There are thousands of them; it reminds me of when seeing the kids of Ethiopia.

Thank xxx for fly nets, everyone is wearing them and I’m so glad I’ve got one. After sunset we drove to a rest area just outside of Cervantes which is the closest excuse for a town to the Pinnacles, consisting of a tourist information point and four shops. Setting up the tent and cooking under only torch light was fun and what a bitch the tent pegs where to get in the hard gravel ground, it’s solid, a bit of improvisation using the car and it’s all sorted. Lots of creepy crawlies around here so again it’s an early night, only this time no sleeping bag required it’s a hot one.

Where’s the sun gone? It’s very overcast today. Made our way up to Geraldton, on the way stopping at Green Head, where the beaches are full of red sea weed and Dongara, where the trees grow sideways instead of upwards due to the constant strong southerly winds. We are staying in the cray fishing town of Geraldton for a few days with some friends of Hans, Jenny and Dave.

A massive house on a hill overlooking the sea and the two of them are very nice. Apparently it’s better not to drink the tap water here as it’s being linked to a large number of cancer cases in the area. Had to have a little chat with Hans about Kim, I think she’s ok but for some reason he’s being really weird and off with her, which on our first day together isn’t a good start. From what I can make out from being piggy in the middle is that the problem is more with him than her. Anyway, I think he has loosened out a little bit since arriving at Jenny and Dave’s, just have to wait and see. Takeaway fish & chips for dinner and a DVD, sweet.

Breakfast, some hanging out in the house and then after lunch me and Kim walked down to the beach, it’s windy and the sea is pretty choppy, which could be why we’re the only 2 people on the beach, it was good though.

Back at the house and Dave has just got back from a mornings spear fishing with some huge mackerel and a couple of trouts. I joined him in the garden for a lesson in gutting and filleting fish, whilst doing so eating it as well, Raw, you can’t get much fresher than that. What a dinner, fish cooked to perfection, jacket potatoes and a huge bowl of salad, it’s not often I say it, but I’m stuffed. We then spent the rest of the evening playing cards.

Another lazy morning, then after lunch it’s down to the beach on my own for some Vinny time, a little siesta in the sun and then some wave bobbing. Kim’s being really moody today, maybe she has got reason to be with not getting on with Hans, but she can’t say I haven’t made the effort. If she wants to be moody that’s up to her, it’s not my problem. Out for a beer with Hans after dinner, it’s Saturday night and there doesn’t seem to be much happening, so after only one beer we headed back. I’ve got to be early in the morning as I’m flying out to the Abrolhos Islands for the day.

A lift to the airport and then I’m off in a tiny 6 seater aircraft out to the Houtman Abrolhos Islands. Which is an area consisting of 122 limestone and coral islands 60km out to sea, west of Geraldton. Because of the islands remote location they form the cleanest marine environment in the world, and apparently according to the book there are no coral reefs of this type anywhere in the world and no other communities of marine animals which equate to those of the Abrolhos. According to the locals is better then the Great Barrier Reef, and being predominately a lobster fishing area it’s totally unspoilt and virtually untouched by tourism, at the moment.

In the plain we flew over the Abrolhos area which is divided into three clusters of islands, some awesome views and so many different colours of sea depending on what’s underneath. After cruising the islands we then landed on the only island which has got a runway (basically a 500m dirt track). Snorkels on and we are off swimming out to the reef. This reef isn’t the best one here, there are hundreds, and it’s just the most accessible.

In terms of coral formations, the colours, and varieties of them, it was awesome. In terms of fish, quantity and variety I’ve so been spoilt in Thailand. Don’t get me wrong, I can only comment on one island out of a 122, I saw loads of fish, lots of colourful tropical ones, bigger plain ones, sting rays, lobster and an octopus, it’s just that what I saw in Thailand (Ko Chang) was just incredible. When and if something ever beats it, it’s going to be out of this world. After lunch on the beach we then had a walk around the island, lots of spiders, lizards, a few birds and the biggest bird’s nest I’ve ever seen, being about 5ft high, that is one big bird. The rest of the afternoon was spent snorkelling around the reef again, before flying back to Geraldton. A good day!

Before leaving Geraldton we did a crayfish factory tour, interesting! Left Geraldton and drove up to the Hutt River Province, which believe it or not is a landlocked country within Australia, so it’s out of Australia and into the Hutt River Province. Because we are now into another country we get another stamp in the old passport, sounds crazy yeah. It’s a long complicated story but basically the Hutt River Province was once part of Australia, until when in 1970 one guy, a farmer, now known as Prince Leonard was unhappy with Australia’s wheat and crop quotas and so pulled his land out of Australia and formed his own country, now known as Hutt River Province.

Within Australia Prince Leonard is a bit of a legend, to single-handedly take on the Australian Government, which did everything they could to stop him, and win, is quite something, he’s one clever guy. His country, which is basically farmland and covers an area the size of Hong Kong has got to be the least populated country in the world, only himself and his family living there. Being farmland it wasn’t anything special, it was meeting and talking to Prince Leonard that was the highlight. 80 years old and with no marbles rolling around upstairs, he’s such a nice guy.

I was expecting a great big mansion but he just lives in a rundown farmhouse, next to his house are the Government offices, his post office, his own church, he has even got his own stamps and currency which is worthless within Australia but accepted in various banks around the world, crazy. He is totally independent from Australia, with all his electricity coming from generators. Both his cars have got diplomatic plates and he has got contacts and supporters all over the world including world leaders. He has also written 15 books for NASA and universities around the world on mathematical theories, like I sad a clever guy. He is letting us camp on his land tonight with the use of his pool and the outside bathroom, the only downside is the damn flies. Also because the Hutt River is classed a separate country is not marked in any of the Australian road atlases or maps.

Dinner was interesting, since we sat off Hans and Kim just haven’t hit it off and so it’s now all come to a head. Hans has admitted, apologized and explained that he has things on his mind the first couple of days and so was quite withdrawn, but she is just refusing to accept it and start to crash. I’m not going to bore you with the details but basically Kim And Hans just aren’t getting on and if I’m honest I’m slowly going off her, I’m not going to slag her off or go into the details but I can’t see things working out.

Out of the Hutt River and back into Australia where we then drove up to Kalbarri. A small town alongside the Kalbarri National Park. On arrival we pulled up alongside the riverbank and watched the pelicans before then driving up the south coast stopping at all the different viewpoints and coastal gorges on the way. Some awesome views, lots of red coloured cliffs and layered rock which have over the years been shaped by the sea, wind and rain to form some beautiful rock formations.

The views here are awesome but the flies here are beyond a joke, as soon as you step out of the car you’re just covered in them, they are so annoying and even with the fly net on I still managed to swallow three of the damn things. A swim in the sea with Hans and then off for some rock climbing, Welcome to Australia. All set up in the camp site and it’s time for another group chat. Hans and Kim just aren’t going to get on and I’m fed up with being in the middle, I’m not going to go in the details but Kim is going to leave us in the morning, there is a backpacker hostel here so she’ll be fine. I feel out of order but it has got to be for the better, she should be having the time of her life and at the moment she isn’t, best of luck.