Travelling / Backpacking / Flashpacking the World!

Up bright and early and a wander down to Bo Bo's with Niamh for some brekki. It’s a bit of a miserable day today and guess what, it’s raining. We still spent most of the day on the beach and I ended up playing Frisbee with a Thai guy and a Thai boy for ages. The boy was only about 8 years old and he could throw the thing far better and further than me, they are both well good at it, they showed me a few different ways of throwing it, more practice needed though.

A swim to cool down and then back to the hut for a shower and to chill out for a couple of hours before going out for dinner in the only other restaurant on the beach front. We stocked up on whiskey and coke and headed back to the hut for some music and drinking games, it’s our last night all together as Christy is heading back to Bangkok tomorrow on his way home. With the drink gone it was time to walk down to the beach, a bucket between us on the way and then after a bit of hanging around we got a long boat over to Ton Sai beach. Not quite what we were expecting, it’s really quiet, apparently because there are no party's on this side of the bay tonight. Another bucket in one of the very quiet beach bars and then got a long boat back to our beach. We could hear music in the distance and so headed up the beach towards it where we ended up coming across a small open bar/club called The Gecko. Inside there was a live reggae band playing, some wicked tunes being played, lots of drinking, dancing and chatting to people.

Towards the end of the night Sarah got up on stage and sung a couple of songs with the band, she sung one song by the Cranberry's all on her own, Cool. Surprise, surprise, it’s raining again, it’s an open bar so it emptied out pretty quickly, but then it is 4am in the morning.

Up and checked out of our hut by 11am. Backpacks on and had breakfast together in Bo Bo's. It was then time for me and the girls to get a long boat to Ao Nang. Time to say goodbye to Christy who has been my travelling buddy for the last 9-10 weeks. I really didn't think that it would feel weird leaving him, but it did. I think we are very different in a lot of ways but he is a Top bloke, we have done so much together, had some good laughs, and had some absolutely awesome nights out together. Thank you mate!

It felt quite strange on the boat without him on the way to Ao Nang, especially knowing that tomorrow I will be saying goodbye to the girls as well. In Ao Nang we then got a shared taxi van to Krabi town. Had a result at the guesthouse we found and we are all in the same room for our last night together, the girls in a double bed and me in a single, it’s a well nice room, it’s cheap and it has got a TV with English programmes being played, well that's us sorted because once again it is chucking it down. A shower and some chill time and then out for dinner in an Italian restaurant, I had a pizza which was so good that I then had a bowl of pasta, beautiful, my mouth was watering from just reading the menu. Back to the room for some chill time, TV and our last night together.

Up and feeling fresh, some brekki and then into town with the girls for some shopping. It is really hot today, typical, we left the beach because of the rain and now it is roasting. Whilst having a drink in a little bakery the girls gave me a little present, a new travelling buddy, a little pink teddy and some little hair clips, they must think I'm turning into a girl ha ha.

Well it didn't stay hot for long it’s 2pm and it is absolutely chucking it down. After lunch it was back to the guesthouse to pack my bags, at 3.30pm I am getting an overnight coach back to Bangkok, I'm on my way to Vietnam for a whole new adventure. I don't think I will ever get used to saying goodbye to quality people, and they are QUALITY, Christy included. Two months we have all been together day in day out, we have had so many good times together. I'm happy to be heading to Vietnam but sad to be leaving the girls, especially knowing that our paths may never cross again, hopefully we will meet again in Oz but only time will tell, for now anyway it’s thank you for the memories, good luck and Goodbye.

So this is it, back on my own again and in a taxi van on the way to Krabi bus station, I'm actually feeling quite sad. The pink teddy hanging off my backpack got a few funny looks, I don't know these people so what do I care, cute isn’t it. At Krabi bus station I met a fella called Anthony from Southend, had a good old chat and sat next to each other on the night coach, he’s cool and chatting to him took my mind off leaving the others. Ahhh Bless!

5am and I am back in Bangkok for the 6th time, on the Th Khao San with Anthony, had a drink in a bar together and then made arrangements to meet each other later on today. For me it's some internet action then back to the old faithful Rainbow guesthouse for the night. Some brekki and then took my camera into a camera repair shop to see if it can be fixed today, it might have to be sent away, have to wait and see. A shower, a sort out, and then a walk around, it is so hot here and the pollution makes it so humid. Anthony didn't show but to be fair he did say that he would probably end up falling asleep. Went to go to the bank and realized that I have lost my bank card, Great, just what I need the day before going to Vietnam, not a problem it’s given me something else to do anyway, transferred some money and cancelled the card. Sorted!

Picked the camera up - beauty, all sorted and it only cost 7 pound, how good is that. Another wander before dinner and bought a pair of snide Puma sprint trainers, not bad for a fiver. I spent the rest of the evening reading, chilling out, and on the internet. Flying to Vietnam tomorrow, Bring it on.

I didn't sleep to well, a hard bed topped with the intense sweaty heat, bags packed and a taxi to the airport. Landing in Vietnam ( Hanoi) the weather looks very overcast and xxxx me is it cold, what's that all about? Through passport control and up to the money exchange counter, changed 200 pounds and got more than 5.6 million dong in return, I thought the money in Laos was a nightmare to convert, try working this out. I then got a shared mini van from the airport to what is known as Hanoi's Old Quarter part of town.

All the locals are wearing hats, gloves, ear muffs and coats, so I'm not the only one that's cold. The girls recommended the Old quarter as a good place to stay so that was where I got dropped off along with some others, I didn't actually find the guesthouse that the girls recommended but there is plenty to choose from. I got chatting to guy from Switzerland and suggested that we could share a room, it would work out cheaper and he was well up for it. We got a room in the Fortuan Hotel, 4 dollars each per night, we have got a really nice room, a big bathroom with a hot shower, towels and soap included, English TV, a fridge, soft beds, free internet and breakfast included, now that's what I call value for money. On top of all that the staff couldn’t be any more friendly and helpful, they gave us a map each of the town, made phone calls on my behalf to get prices for a flight out of Saigon, otherwise I have got to return to Hanoi which would be a waste of time, and then we both booked a 2 day boat trip with them around Halong Bay, accommodation included on the boat in the bay of Cat Ba Island, all meals included and all for less than 20 pound.

Now its time for a walk around, no chance of walking on the pavements, there are shops with things for sale laid out on the pavement, motorbikes parked all along them and where there is a space there are people cooking and eating in the street. It’s kind of like Cambodia, not that many cars but thousands of more motorbikes, they are everywhere and driving in much the same way, dodging and weaving in and out of each other. Believe it or not it is easier to cross the roads here than at home, you just literally step into the road, walk across and everyone just drives around you, you could shut your eyes and do it, it’s that simple, at home you would have people speeding up, bibbing, and shouting abuse, Crazy. We got a moto each and went to check out the War Museum, it turned out to be a wasted journey as it is closed on Monday's and Friday's. Riding on the back of these bikes is great, it feels kind of weird though when no one else is going the same way and you have got dozens of bikes coming towards ya. The few cars I have seen don't seem to be getting very far, they just seem to be crawling along with their horns blasting, surrounded by motorbikes. I thought the bike drivers in London were bad, there is not even a comparison.

Back at where we are staying and a wander around. The streets all look the same it would be so easy to get lost. The streets are full of hotels, tour agents, food places and shops that sell all sorts of stuff, some new and others selling what we would consider junk. Whilst walking through a food market looking at all the weird and wanderful things being sold we see a huge fish on a table which had been cut into 4 pieces, blood and guts hanging out, but the quarter with the head attached was still moving, hopefully just nerves twitching.

Back to the hotel for some chill time, walking through reception the staff called us over and offered us some Vietnamese cake, obviously I tried it, they were all watching me eat it and I think they were quite surprised that I did, I've got no idea what it was, a proper weird taste, had to have another bit though. Next thing I knew, whilst on the internet, one of them put a plate of the stuff in front of me, I said thank you but had to turn it down, 2 pieces of that is enough. You don't get hospitality like that at home. Time for some dinner, had a wander up the road and found a little Vietnamese restaurant, time to check out the local grub. Noodle soup with beef, that on its own is like a meal, not bad. I then had Cat fish with a lemon and butter sauce with rice, I started eating it and then realized that it still had the guts and everything still in it, it looks disgusting. I'll eat most things but I'm trusting my instincts on that, and I don't even think that it’s cooked properly. What I ate was washed down with a pint of beer which get this, the same price as a bottle of water, and all for under 3 dollars.

Another wander around the streets freezing my Jacobs off, lots of moto drivers offering drugs and opium etc. I was going to buy a coat for on the boat tomorrow but I think they see a tourist and the price goes through the roof, after a little haggling I decided against it, I'll only end up throwing it away. With that it’s back to the hotel for some free internet action and TV.

Early start, brekki consisted of Vietnamese bread, butter, jam, tea, coffee and fruit. 7.30am and me and Harvey are in the mini van and shivering along with another 10 people who are also on the same tour to Ha Long Bay, 156km west of Hanoi. All around the streets of the Hanoi there are people cooking and eating in the streets, more often than not from a lady carrying 2 baskets, 1 hanging from either end of a length of wood which is then carried over her shoulder. In one basket is the ingredients of what ever dish she is preparing and in the other is a little stove on which the food is cooked as ordered. Once outside the little streets of the Old Quarter there is a hell of a lot more cars, vans, busses and lorry's, along with all the thousands of motorbikes.

Vietnam is very built up compared to Cambodia and Laos, lots of tall skinny, once colourful, French looking houses with little balconies, nowadays they just look dirty. Vietnam also has proper roads and a Rail line which runs the length of the country, with a population of over 80 million it needs to be built up. Outside Hanoi the road widens up into a main highway, along most of which is paddy fields on either side, as far as the eye can see.

Ha Long Bay, which means dragon teeth consists of an estimated 1600 bizarrely shaped limestone outcrops/islands, home to many hidden bays on which there are tiny beaches and caves of all sizes. Ha Long Bay is often referred to as the 8th natural wonder of the world and is protected by the UNESCO preservation society. Onto our nice looking large wooden boat and it is absolutely freezing, backpack open and I am now wearing 2 pairs of socks, 2 pairs of trousers, 4 T. shirts and a long sleeved top, not good I'm still cold.

Our rooms on the boat are on the lower deck and are really nice, a bathroom and air con included, I don't think we will be using that. On the upper deck is a bar and eating area which is where we then had lunch. There is lots of really good food, rice, spring rolls, fish, potatoes, and beef and vegetable dishes. No way am I drinking cold drinks in this weather, for the next 2 days I will be drinking Lipton tea without milk, the milk here isn't milk as we know it, it's a dollop of condensed, sugary substance and is much nicer without. There is very little chicken or eggs available in Vietnam at the moment as due to the bird flu large numbers of chickens have been slaughtered. We then spent a couple of hours sailing through the islands taking in the sites, if it wasn't so overcast the views would be a lot better. The boat then stopped outside a huge cave which we then walked around, very impressive and believed to be more than 2 million years old.

Back in the boat for some more sailing and then we stopped for some kayaking. O' dear, it’s cold enough without being wet as well, I don't want to know how cold the water is. Obviously not everyone is up for it, it’s got to be done though. Everyone thinks im crazy wearing only my shorts and T. shirt but im not going to risk getting my clothes wet and then having to sit around all night wet and cold. We kayaked a good mile or so across to an island with a beach, at the very top of the island was a view point, a mission to get up to, lots of steps which kept me warm. A few pictures, although not the best day for views plus the fact that it’s now starting to get dark. Back to the boat, wet as expected and straight under a cold shower, not for long I can tell ya, I’m so cold im getting cramps in my feet, clothes on and upstairs for a gallon of tea to warm me up.

Dinner was very similar to lunch, soup, rice, potatoes, spring rolls, salad and a squid dish, the best squid I have ever had, it melted in my mouth, cooked to perfection. After dinner the boat anchored up and I spent the evening drinking tea and playing cards with an Australian couple. At bed time I got into bed fully clothed and luckily there is a big thick duvet to snuggle into.

Slept well, out of bed and it hasn’t got any warmer. Some brekki then set off again touring the islands. Check out the floating villages, little floating huts or small fishing boats joined together on which people live. It’s amazing to think that people and families actually live there lives here at sea. I would love to be able to meet and be able to speak to one of them. I wonder what they are like, what there outlook on life is, what life for them is like, and what excites them, makes them happy etc, Unbelievable!

After a few hours of sailing we were back in the port for lunch in a Vietnamese restaurant, a nice bit of warmth, beautiful. So much food brought out, and very similar to on the boat. I was on a table with Harvey, the Australian couple, and 2 Italian girls, on seeing how much I ate the Italian girls said that there mums would love me, ha ha.

It was a nice tour but would have been better if it wasn’t so cold. Also a few porkpies were told when we booked up, we were told that we would be visiting Cat Ba Island and nature reserve which we didn't, that was one of the places I wanted to go, the girls said it was really good. When I questioned the crew they said that because it is cold there is nothing there, that's not the point, and it’s also a load of bull. Never mind it’s just one of those things, you live and learn. It also turns out that the Australian couple have paid double what we did for exactly the same tour, so think how they feel, proper done up. After a good feast it was back in the mini van for the journey back to Hanoi, just in time for the 5 o'clock traffic, unbelievable, bikes everywhere, horns blasting from all directions and smell those petrol fumes. We got dropped off back at the Fortuan hotel but decided to find somewhere else to stay. Walking around with our backpacks on is crazy, bikes and cars brushing past us as we walk along in the road, on top of that we are being mobbed by hotel touts that don't take no for an answer, just got to smile and keep on walking, at the end of the day they are just doing there jobs, I don't take xxxx from anyone at work so why should they.

After a nice wander around and looking at a few places we ended up in the French Quarter of the city where we met a really friendly tout and so decided to check out what he had to offer. It’s a place called The Darling Backpacker Guesthouse, a big room, clean and basic with a TV, bath and hot water, free internet and breakfast included, 3 dollars each a night. I bought an open bus ticket from the guesthouse, 20 dollars from Hanoi down to Saigon, with my selected stops in between, so much cheaper than the train. Checked out the internet for some sensible priced flights from Saigon to Bangkok, they are all over 200 dollars, I then decided to check the prices from Saigon to Hanoi, I'm not going to spend 40 hours plus on a bus travelling back up to Hanoi, and I have already got a flight out of Hanoi. They seem to be expensive as well, in the end one of the staff from the guesthouse made a few calls and got me a flight for 90 dollars, it’s a deal, I can't find cheaper, these people are so friendly and helpful.

In the room for some chill time and can't be bothered to go out for dinner and so settled for a box of cookies instead. I'm sure I have brought a cold back with me from Ha Long Bay. Early start in the morning, got to check out the sites of Hanoi before getting the overnight bus south to Hue, which is in the middle of the country in between Hanoi and Saigon. It should get a lot warmer as we head south, as it is winter in the north and summer in the south.

Up nice and early for brekki, it’s a day for wandering the streets checking out the sights of Hanoi. There are so many good photo opportunities but it is so hard to take a good picture, one because I don't want to be rude by pointing my camera in people’s faces, and two, because of all the bikes and people walking past everything comes out blurred. Walking up the road we see a truck with uniformed men on the back, they kept stopping at random shops and street traders and helping themselves to there goods, the people looked really scared and upset, the people from the shops ahead were hurriedly moving there stock off the streets. Out of curiosity I wrote down the name on the truck so that I could later ask the guy from the guesthouse what it is all about.

Anyway, 1st stop was the Army Museum, it’s a school outing day today, kids everywhere screaming hello and waving. There were lots of relics from the war along with lots of U.S and French weaponry seized by the Vietnamese. 2nd stop was Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, not very exiting and it’s closed. Ho Chi Minh's house is just across the road, a big beautiful yellow building although unfortunately its surrounded by trees and check out the security presence in the area, lots of men in uniform with guns along with restricted access along the surrounding roads. 3rd stop was the Hoan Kien Lake in the middle of the city which to Hanoians is the soul of their city. In the middle of the lake is a three-tiered pavilion, known as Tortoise Tower.

It was then a case of just wondering the streets and taking it all in. The men in South East Asia have got it sussed, although especially so in Vietnam. It always seems to be the women that are working, cooking and selling, whilst the men just seem to sit around on the pavements playing board games, eating, drinking and smoking Opium through large wooden pipes, what a life. Away from the congestion of the Old and French Quarters, Hanoi is actually quite a nice city, the roads widen, the streets are cleaner and the traffic is more scattered. Lunch in a little Vietnamese restaurant and then more wandering the streets of this amazing, crazy city. The people are so friendly, if I had a pound for every time someone took my hat off to try it on, I would be a lot better off. To the moto drivers and sellers I am constantly saying, Hello, No Thank You, I need it printed on a T. shirt. None of them are a problem, and the men always talk about English football, Millwall or Chelsea, they love it. On the way back to the guesthouse I stopped at a little food stall in the street for some noodle soup, Harvey wasn’t too sure, until he saw mine and then he quickly changed his mind, so good and so cheap, lots of Vietnamese looking and smiling at me sat on my little plastic stall.

It was then back to the guesthouse for some internet action before catching the night bus to Hue. It turns out that the uniformed men in the truck were police, and because very few people pay tax they just go around helping themselves to peoples goods. A moto ride in the dark to the bus pick up point, what a crazy experience, and what a mess the streets are.

What a journey, bumpy, harsh braking and lots of horn blowing, I ended up laying down on the floor down the centre isle and eventually got some sleep. 8.30am and we are in the city of Hue, it’s warmer than Hanoi but it’s raining. In to a hotel, ponchos out, and then straight out and onto the back of a moto each for a day of sight seeing around the city. Very different to the chaos of Hanoi, not so many bikes and a lot more dirty looking buildings.

There's lots of history to this city and for that reason, it was listed in 1993, a UNESCO world heritage site. In 1802 the emperor moved the capital city from Hanoi and built his Imperial City in Hue, which is known as The Citadel, of the original 148 buildings only 20 have survived. A walk around the Citadel and it is literally more temple ruins which after seeing Angkor Wat in Cambodia, just aren't impressive. A visit to the Tu Hieu pagoda which is the oldest in the city and on the edge of the Perfume river, which gets its name from all the nice smelling flowers which used to grow along the river banks.

Vong Canh Hill, on top of which are old U.S bunkers overlooking the Perfume river from which they could monitor Vietnamese movement. The Royal Arena which has not been used for over 1000 years. The arena used to be used for elephant V tiger fighting, before the fight the tiger would have its teeth pulled out, the elephant is the kings symbol of power and strength and could not be seen to lose. Driving around the city there is a lot of old ruins and a lot of visible bullet holes in buildings, some which have been left and others have been filled in. A few unmade roads around the city and lots of paddy fields, although as it is not rice growing season at the moment, the lush green paddy fields are at present just water logged fields.

We saw a few other sights but nothing of real interest. Just driving around all day on the back of the bikes was really good although I am now cold and very wet, just what I need when I have got a cold. All I have eaten today is noodle soup with either rice or bread, and it’s now time to go back to the hotel for a hot shower and a snuggle up under my duvet to watch a film.

Early start, heading north to Dong Ha, it’s DMZ (Demilitarized Zone) tour day. Dong Ha was once a U.S marine command post which in 1972 was totally obliterated. It’s a small dirty looking town with food which is bland, edible and really not that nice. Vietnam was once split into two North and South.

The DMZ division line ran along the Ben Hai river, all communist troops were supposed to regroup in the north leaving southern Vietnam to the non-communists. During the war the 2 provinces either side of the DMZ were the most heavily bombed and saw the highest casualties. The U.S unleashed so much fire power on the area including Napalm and Herbicides that for years nothing would grow, and today is responsible for causing over 500,000 birth defects. Today there are still unexploded landmines in the area. The north Vietnamese were able to bypass the DMZ, its American fire bases over looking the river and it’s the heavily guarded route 9 which is the main highway which runs down the length of the country via the Ho Chi Minh trail. The Ho Chi Minh trail was conceived in 1959 as a safe route by which to direct men and equipment down the length of Vietnam in support of communist groups in the south. By the end of its working life the trail had grown from a rough assemblage of jungle paths to become a highly effective logistical network.

For much of its southerly route the trail ran through Laos and Cambodia, always through the most difficult, mountainous terrain. The trail was over 15,000km long and in its early days took over 6 months to walk, it eventually widened enough to take tanks and heavy trucks and could then be driven in a week. It was supported by underground fuel depots, ammunition dumps, food stores and hospitals. In 1965 America started its aerial bombardment over the trail, Napalm and defoliants were used on the area to kill the jungle vegetation and flush out the North Vietnamese. It’s also the reason why America illegally, and secretly, bombed Laos and Cambodia. With over 2 million tonnes of bombs dropped over the area, the trail was never completely severed.

Onto the Vinh Moc Tunnels. From 1966, in order to avoid American bombardments villagers spent 2 years digging the clay soil to form a complex underground tunnel network consisting of more than 50 tunnels over a 4km area, the entrances to the tunnels have been restored but everything else is original. The tunnels are on 3 levels, 10m, 15m, and 25m deep, with ventilation holes, freshwater wells, a reinforced bomb shelter and eventually a generator and lights, the underground village had a school, clinics and a maternity room. A large area of the tunnel network has been destroyed as towards the end of the war America invented the Drilling bomb, which drills itself 10m into the ground before exploding, collapsing the tunnels and killing the people inside. Over 1000 villagers lived in these tunnels for 4 years, in 1972 they were able to emerge and rebuild there homes above ground. Amazing to see and definitely the highlight of the day, each family was allocated a tiny cavern to live in, and I mean tiny. Unbelievable, and for 4 years, its damp and muddy because of the rain and I can't imagine how hot it must have got during the summer months, as soon as you exit the tunnels you can feel the temperature drop.

Next stop was the prominent mountain/hill called Rockpile, which during the war was used by the U.S as an air base for bombing the surrounding area and monitoring North Vietnamese activity. Our last stop was the Khe Sanh U.S air base, high up near the Laos border in order to monitor North Vietnamese activity. Built in 1966 and used until 1968 it was manned by 5000 American marines and even had its own runway. However what the Americans didn't realize was that during some months the area is covered in thick mist. The Viet Cong knew this and gradually gathered at the bottom of the mountain, and on January 21st 1968 they attacked. 10,000 people were killed here and in July the Americans eventually withdrew leaving everything behind. The battle was later named the Khe Sanh Hell. The Vietnamese people who had by know lost there homes then lived in the American bunkers whilst they rebuilt there village. There is now a small museum on the air base which features lots of pictures, and also some U.S air craft that was left behind. Walking around the museum there is people selling rusty old dug up dog tags, why, and who the hell would buy them.

I met quite a few people today, a nice English couple and some annoying Americans who have always got something to say whether included in the conversation or not. I know it’s not their generation but being American you would think that they would feel guilty and show some sort of compassion towards the Vietnamese people, they don't though. I'm actually feeling quite anti-American at the moment. What else is interesting is that in Vietnam you don't see that many people in there 50s, you see a few much older people, but other than that most the men are in there 30s or 40s, a whole generation wiped out from years of war.

Well it’s been a long and interesting day so after some dinner and a beer its back to the hotel for some TV and a rest.

On the move again today, got the 8am bus heading south to Hoi An, there is nothing of interest to see in Hoi An and so we are only stopping here for a few hours to check it out and then getting the overnight bus further south to Nha Trang. Arrived in Hoi An at 1pm, it’s wet but a hell of a lot warmer.

We dumped our bags in the bus station and then had a wander around, I'm glad we are stopping here, it just seems to be 2 never-ending roads running parallel to each other. We ended up hiring a bicycle each, according to the map the beach is 3km one way, and the market and main part of town 3km in the opposite direction.

Hoi An is recognized by UNESCO as a Cultural World Heritage sight, in its hey day the port town attracted vessels from the worlds great trading nations. Somehow the Escaped damage during the both the French and American wars. The beach actually looks very nice, it’s just a shame that it’s wet and we are wearing our poncho's. We found a really nice sea food restaurant on the beach front for a bite to eat, whilst waiting for my food a really young looking girl came up to me trying to sell me bracelets and necklaces etc. I got chatting to her and it turns out she is actually 19 years old and in her last year of school, she really wants to go to university and this is how she makes her money, She speaks really good English and is so witty, she has got an answer for everything I say, quality. I did actually like one of her necklaces and after a bit of haggling to see how low I could get her to drop she eventually settled at 1 dollar, her original asking price was 3 dollars and that's what I paid her, the haggling was just a bit of fun and it’s what they do, but im not going to sit in a nice restaurant with my new camera around my neck and take 2 dollars from someone who is doing her best to better herself, what's 2 dollars to me, it’s a hell of a lot more to her.

From the beach we then cycled to the other end of the town where it is actually quite touristy, there is a huge market and lots of made to measure clothes shops, souvenir stalls, art galleries and hotels. It actually looks like a really nice town, lots of really nice French Colonial buildings, obviously it has got its dirty ones too, the town in general seems very peaceful, a good place for chilling out and shopping. Well after a good cycle around it’s back to the bus station and on the bus to Nha Trang, which is home to the finest beach in Vietnam and now firmly on the tourist route.

Not a good day for being on the coast, it’s hot but it’s also very windy and very wet, Great! Found a lovely hotel though, and apart from the odd venture out to get food that's where we spent most of the day, it’s a very built up city and by far the cleanest so far, there is definitely no shortage of accommodation and restaurants, and there is baguette stalls everywhere. At the moment the beach is closed, the red flags are out, look at the state of the sea, it’s a dark brown colour from all the crap that is being washed up. Spent the evening in front of the TV with a few beers, a couple of baguettes and some chocolate cakes that I just cant stop eating.

What is with the weather, another seriously miserable day, we had planned to hire some bikes but xxx that. Another day spent mostly in the hotel watching films. Going to get on the move again tomorrow, gonna go straight to Saigon, a bit earlier on planned because I wanted to go to Da Lat which is in the highlands but apparently the weather is even worse with the added bonus of thick fog, not going to get to see too much there then, so for me it’s onto Saigon, Harvey is going to stop over in Muine.

Bags packed and whilst waiting for the bus I got chatting to some Australians, Helen, Chris, Tim and Alex who have not long arrived. With the weather being the way it is they have decided to go to the Thap Ba Hot Spring Centre, which Sarah and Niamh went to and said was a must. I then cancelled my bus, booked back into my room, said goodbye to Harvey, and I'm going with them. A proper day of relaxation, soaked in a wooden bath of hot mineral mud, then got into the high pressure sprays which is like having an all over massage, we then soaked in salty mineral water which is taken from 100m below ground and is 40 degrees hot. We then spent the rest of the day in either the hot swimming pool or sitting under the waterfall, all of the above was outside in the rain but it was so nice and such a good day for doing it. A bite to eat and then an all over Vietnamese oil massage, the birdie was so fit I was praying for her to ask if I wanted any extras, no joy though it was all very professional, Damn! It was good but totally different to a Thai massage, which have got to be the best, she walked on my back and all sorts.

Back to the hotel and then all out for dinner in a nice seafood restaurant. Me , Tim and Alex then went to a few different bars for a few beers, not much happening here really, everywhere is really quiet, we found the Sailing club on the beach front which is meant to be really good but its pretty much empty. We ended up in a place called Crazy Kim's which was the only place we could find with more than a dozen people in it, it was pretty good actually and we got chatting to a group of English and Australian girls, Mad a? We then got soaked walking home.

All of us are of to Saigon today although the bus is delayed by 2 and a half hours, because of last nights storm which by the way kept me awake, the other side of the town is flooded. Well with time to kill I put my poncho on and headed towards the beach in the rain, it’s seriously windy today, the palm trees are all over the place. Look at the state of the beach it’s covered in all sorts of stuff that has been washed up in the storm, most of it is drift wood which the Vietnamese are out collecting, although I also passed a dead dog and later found out that Alex found a dead pig, Mad.

A bite to eat and then on to the bus for the 12 hour journey. On route the bus stopped for another pick up and a break in Muine, Harvey is there waiting, he too is heading to Saigon. I ended up sitting next to an English girl who also got on in Muine, chatting to her enough passed the time.

9.30pm and we are in Saigon, its not raining and its hot at last, Saigon looks so different to the rest of Vietnam, lots of big fancy looking hotels, designer shops and fast food outlets, there's even a KFC.

A mission to find a hotel, most places are full and the ones we looked at are pants, I’ve stayed in a lot worse but since being in Vietnam we have all got used to staying in really nice places, the accommodation in Hanoi and the rest of Vietnam was so much better and it was cheaper. After a lot of walking around we eventually found a really nice place, 15 dollars for a twin room and it’s got 3 available, Sweet. Dumped our bags, booked a tour for tomorrow to the Cu Chi and then we all had some dinner. At last, Saigon has got Hotmail, since leaving Hanoi I haven't been able to get it, Strange, some internet action and then walked home in the early hours of the morning, there is a lot of rats roaming the streets, Nice!

Early start, a seriously quick bite to eat and then onto our tour bus for the 70km journey to the Cu Chi tunnels. The Cu Chi tunnels are different from the Vinh Moc tunnels in Hue as these ones were dug for fighting, getting around U.S forces and popping up all over the place, as apposed to living in.

During the American war the villagers around the district of Cu Chi supported a substantial Viet Cong presence. Faced with American attempts to neutralize them, they dug themselves under ground. The result is a complex network of small tunnels, on 3 different levels which spread like a giant cobweb over 200km. Today the tunnels have been restored and have been enlarged by 40% so that western tourists can fit through them. The tunnels were once only 80cm wide and 80cm high, and they too have ventilation holes, fresh water wells, bunkers for meeting, eating, working and medical treatment. At full capacity the tunnels could hold 16000 people, although they never did. At times they had to stay below ground for weeks at a time, laying on the floor so that they were able to breath. American attempts to flush out the tunnels proved ineffective, they used defoliant sprays and bull dozers to rob the VC of cover in what were called Scorched Earth operations. Dogs and GI's would go down themselves but faced booby traps and landmines. America eventually used B52's to try to level the area off with carpet bombing. We saw some of the tunnels that haven't been enlarged, they are tiny, the soldiers had to crawl through on there bellies. The enlarged section of the tunnels which we went through was still small enough, I was walking through them in the squat position, they are pitch black and extremely hot and sweaty, and this is winter. Outside the tunnels we had some Tapioca which is what the soldiers lived on day in day out. It looks like potato with the texture of cheese and it doesn't actually taste of anything, it’s ok with a bit of sugary dip, although I can’t imagine living on it, they must have been so weak.

It was then time for some shooting on the shooting range, it’s a dollar a bullet and you can shoot pretty much anything, machine guns, rifles, hand guns and rocket launchers. I had a go on an AK47 pretty cool, and so loud even with ear protection on, all the soldiers must have been deaf. We then had a look around the souvenir stalls where they have got snake whiskey, I tried 2 different types, it’s nice but xxx me is it strong. Back in Saigon we had a bite to eat and then walked to the War Remnants Museum. Some of the pictures of what America has done to this country and the people are seriously xxxxx up. During the war America dropped over 100 different types of chemicals over Vietnam including 80 million liters of Agent Orange. The pictures of the after effects of being burnt by Agent Orange and Napalm are seriously horrific, and the birth defects that are still being caused today due to the various different types of defoliants dumped across the country are seriously WRONG. Not forgetting the hundreds of thousands of people who have now got cancer and, or, are blind. There are even hideously malformed foetuses preserved in pickling jars. When exposed to the defoliants used they alter the bodies DNA structure, which today is being passed on to innocent children, the effects of which are shown on a seriously disturbing video.

The full scale effects of what America has done to this country are far from over.

Back to the hotel and then out for dinner. I said goodbye to Helen and Chris as tomorrow I am going on a 2 day Mekong River tour and so won't see them in the morning. Me, Tim and Alex then went out for a couple of beers and met a couple of Vietnamese girls, one of which took a liking to Alex, and we ended up getting a taxi with them and another couple of fellers from Newcastle to a club called Lush. It’s a small but proper funky little club, it’s just a shame that I’m not up for a big night out, I only had 3 hours sleep last night and I’ve got to be up again at 6am. We left at 1am and then got another taxi to another club called Lost In Saigon, I feel like a sardine in this place, its rammo!

Meeting and hanging out with the locals is quality, but it’s hard to get your head around, me and Christy were lucky enough to experience it a couple of times but it still feels a little weird. They just want to pay for everything, they paid for both taxis, ordered us all drinks, it’s crazy, and when you first experience it, because of the way we are in the West it’s hard not to think that they must want something in return, but they don't, they just want a good time. Obviously they haven't got as much money as us but what little they have got they just want to share. Anyway all us lads chipped in and bought a litre of whiskey and a load of coke to go around. So much for an early night, it’s 3am and time to say goodbye to Tim and Alex before crashing out.

Said goodbye to Harvey who is on a different tour and on his way to Cambodia, and for me it’s back on my own and of on the Mekong River tour. 3 hours on a bus to Cai Be and then we got on a boat and drove around the Cai Be floating market, it’s really quiet as really it’s an early morning event so there really isn't that much to see. We then drove up the river and stopped at a place to see how the Vietnamese make rice paper, rice crispie cakes and sweets etc, it’s basically a tourist trap. Whilst sitting down drinking tea and sampling the goods I got chatting to 2 Vietnamese girls, Mie and Hoa, who are also on the tour, originally from Na Trang they now live and work in Saigon. It’s hard to believe that they have never been here before, this 2 day tour, for them, is like a holiday. They speak really good English and it turns out that Hoa has just graduated In English from university. Further up the river we stopped for lunch and then back on the boat we passed little villages on the river banks, I didn't take many pictures because I was to busy chatting to the girls, who themselves said how poor this area is, none of the houses have got toilets or bathrooms, everything is done in the river. We eventually ended up in the city of Can Tho where we are staying for the night. A shower to freshen up, it’s been proper roasting all day, and then the girls knocked on my door and asked if I wanted to join them for dinner in a restaurant up the road, Cool. Walking up the road with them it’s surprising to see that they get just as much hassle from the moto drivers and sellers as I do, but like they said, with their nice clothes and hair they don't look like locals and so are mistaken for visitors.

Im expecting a restaurant as we know it and we are at a proper little local restaurant, little tables and stalls on the pavement between the motorbikes, this is so much better. I didn't even see a menu, I just let the girls order, although I’m pretty sure that the restaurant only serves the one dish, obviously I am the only white person in this place and so everyone is looking at me and smiling. Goat Hotpot served on a little stove in the middle of the table with the remaining ingredients, Tofu, vegetables and noodles given to us separately for us to cook ourselves. It’s kind of like the meal I had with Christy, Sarah and Niamh in Cambodia with Richard. Proper nice and with a beer each it came to less than 5 dollars, obviously I paid. We then got a taxi into the main part of the city to go to a night club, which happens to be closed. With that we had a little wander, it’s a really nice looking city and the girls said that it is so much cleaner than Saigon, I can't say that I noticed. We ended up on a huge open sided, beautifully lit up, 3 level ferry on the river. Inside there are different restaurants on each floor each with entertainment, live music and magic shows and again I am the only westerner. Why have I not got my dam camera with me? The ferry even drove up the river for a couple of hours before returning to the dock. After a few beers and some more food we then got a motorbike trailer ride back to the hotel, I gave the driver a dollar which was double the fare and I don't think he could quite believe it when I said keep the change.

What a quality day, the tour wasn't overly exiting but meeting and going out with the girls could possibly be the highlight of Vietnam. So many people travel around the world doing only the touristy stuff, which is all good, but nothing compared to the rare occasion when you get to meet and spend time with the locals. I guess since travelling I’ve been quite lucky in that sense, with Christy and now on my own. But at the same time being on my own, although I haven't been since leaving, I’m making myself more available to meet people and it’s so easy. I don't just want to do the touristy stuff, I want to meet, speak and understand different people. I love meeting different people, everyone has got there own stories and experiences to share. But when you get to spend time with the locals it’s such an experience, such an eye opener, and you learn so much. It really brings home how truly xxxxxx lucky we really are.

Both the girls are 24 years old and neither of them has ever left Vietnam, and they probably never will. Hoa's dream is to go to England but she has to accept that realistically she never will, even if she could afford the air fare, what about spending money, I don't think the Dong does very well against the pound. The average wage in Vietnam is 70 dollars a month. At home I struggle getting out of bed for more than double that a day. But get this, the Lottery jackpot is the equivalent of 2000 pound and it’s not rare after a win for the lucky person to end up killing themselves, going from poverty to having 2000 pound in your pocket obviously isn't as easy as it sounds. When they asked me how much the jackpot in England is, and I told them that sometimes it gets up to millions of pounds, they just can't comprehend it, what could they possibly relate that amount of money to.

What a quality couple of girls, if I hadn't met them I would have probably had dinner in the hotel, a bit of internet action and then an early night, just like everyone else on the tour. Whilst talking to them and they were asking me what travelling the world is like, I felt kind of weird telling them, knowing that they will never get the same opportunity, but at the same time I'm not going to sit there and lie to them. I couldn't help thinking that I could make their dreams come true, it’s crazy to think that I could.

But I actually could, and what would it cost me out of what I earn a year to fly them to England, put them up for a month and show them the sights. Xxx All in comparison, I'm not going to make promises I might not keep but I truly hope that one day I will do something like that, to give someone less fortunate the chance to experience and feel the way that I do at the moment.

What a Buzz that would be!

Breakfast with Mie and Hoa and then all onto the tour bus and off to the Cai Rang floating market. A boat ride through the floating market, it’s a lot better than yesterday, lots of boats selling mainly fruit, veg and fish, and lots of Vietnamese on smaller boats trading goods etc. We then drove along the river along some of the smaller rivers of the Mekong Delta Region, passing through little villages to see the peaceful tranquil life of the locals, these people are so poor, it’s hard to imagine living in these little wooden houses on stilts over the river bank. Some people might think it’s not that bad, maybe not for a week or so, but try doing it for a life time, especially after experiencing the luxuries of our homes on the other side of the world, fortunately these people don't know any different.

Along the way we stopped at a rice husking mill to see how the different types of rice are processed, the mill is absolute filth and in England would be shut down in an instant. We then stopped at some fruit gardens for some tropical fruit tasting, although nothing I haven't already tried. We then stopped in My Tho town to check out the local market, there are lots of beggars and seriously disabled people here, being with the girls they just tell them to go away. I asked them if they ever give them money and they said only if they have small notes, I said that I wanted to, but they told me not to as I would get mobbed, they said to do it just before getting back on the bus. We had a wander up the road away from the crowds for some lunch and a young homeless boy was following us for ages trying to sell the girls lottery tickets, they weren't interested so I just gave him some money and the girls told him to go away. Back at the bus I picked a disabled guy to give money to, unfortunately I can't give it to them all. He is about my age maybe younger and has got no legs, he is sat on a little skate board type thing with a cup clipped to his shirt and flip flops on his hands with which he pushes himself along. Not something you see at home, I gave him some money and then got on the bus, how sad is that.

Back on the bus and 4 hours later we are back in Saigon. Before saying goodbye the girls gave me there numbers so that we could met up tomorrow night, and whilst saying goodbye Helen and Chris walked past, Crazy. We arranged to meet up in an hour’s time, Tim and Alex are back at the hotel, which gives me time to find a cheap place to stay. 3 dollars a night, it’s a bit of a prison cell but it’s got a bed and a bathroom, what else do I need.

Met the others, had some dinner, and then had a few beers and games of pool with Tim and Alex, they are going to Lush again tonight but I’m gonna give it a miss, once again its goodbye, the 4 of them are flying to Singapore tomorrow, see ya in Oz.

A nice lay in and down the road for some brekki where I met a nice little Dutch bird who has been in Vietnam for 6 months, she admits being quite spoilt and it sounds like she has been just about everywhere. Apparently she normally hates backpackers but said that I’m cool, relaxed and easy to talk to, Thanks. Walking down the road she introduced me to an American guy she knows, he too has been in Vietnam a while and voluntarily teaches English in a kids orphanage, what a top bloke, and the first American I have met who feels ashamed about what America has done. He said that there are thousands of homeless kids in Vietnam, a lot of which have been sold by there parents to perverts who come over to countries like this, where money is power, and exploit poverty. After being abused the kids are then left to fend for themselves.

Into another little place with the Dutch bird for a milkshake and a pancake and then I left her to go on a cyclo ride around the city, she told me where she would be tonight if I wanted to meet her. I then spent the next couple of hours being driven around, I saw quite a few more disabled people including another guy on another little skate board, this one has only got one arm and one leg, it’s so sad. Back at my hotel I gave the cyclo driver a tip, since meeting the girls I just want to give people money. Spoke to Mie about meeting later on tonight and then just spent the rest of the day wandering around and chilling out before going out to meet them. I got a moto to the Sheraton Saigon Hotel which is where Mie works and gave the moto driver double the fare. Now that is what you call a hotel, 5 stars and the best in Vietnam, the rooms start at 200 dollars a night and go up to 2000 dollars a night, no wonder she gets more than 3 times the average wage. Hao isn't out tonight as she is ill. We had a walk up the road and you can see that this is where the money is in this city, seriously nice hotels and lots of top class expensive restaurants. We ended up in a place called The Seventeen Saloon, a hell of a lot dearer than I am now used to, a beer in here costs 4 times what I have been paying, it’s my last night, xxx it. Had some food as well, O' dear it wouldn't of filled a pigeon.

At one point in the evening whilst talking to Mie, I had tears in my eyes. I think it’s so sad meeting people who just haven't got the same opportunities in life as we have. She just wants what we all want, a nice house, a car, a holiday, all the things that we have and take for granted. At the end of the night she even wanted to pay the bill, she said that because I am travelling I need the money more than her, NO, NO NO. Explaining to her why I couldn't let her pay the bill was when I was seriously holding back the tears. The generosity of these people xxxxxx amazes me, they have got so little, but the little they have, they share. Anyway they have forgotten to put the food on the menu, Result, that's saved me a few dollars. Said goodbye and then got a moto back to the hotel, again paying double the fare, it’s so good seeing the looks on their faces, and what good is the money to me, im leaving in the morning. I then met the Dutch bird and the American guy, although not for long, it would be nice to get a couple of hours sleep, I’ve got to be up at 4.30am.

Up ready and bags packed by 4.30am, I then spent the next hour before getting a taxi to the airport chatting to a guy from the hotel. He was saying that our generation of people in Vietnam hate the government so much because of the long hours and little money that they earn. He too wants to visit England but knows it is very expensive, he earns 50 dollars a month and gets a bit extra by working as a tour guide. Everyone here is so happy and friendly, they just get on and live the life that they have been dealt with a smile on there face, they know that being miserable isn't going to change anything, they are just quality people. Whilst counting how much Dong I had left he jokingly asked if I wanted to leave him a tip, with that I handed him 3 dollars worth, he wouldn't take it at first as he thought I was joking, he was well happy and there is no point taking it with me. At the airport I then put the rest of my Dong in the charity box for the disabled, giving it away feels good.

Two flights and a taxi later and Im back in Thailand and back on the Th Khao San, back to the old Rainbow Guesthouse and first things first, a green curry, now im home. Well I’ve now got a couple of hours to kill and then later on im meeting Federico who too is somewhere in Bangkok. We met along with another Brazilian guy that Federico has met on his travels and had a good old catch up. We just had a few beers on the Th Khao San and then finished up in an Irish bar called the Shamrock where there is a live band playing, the band is awesome, proper rinsing out the old classics and they sound so good. At the end of the night we then walked up the road for some noodle soup and a pancake each before saying goodbye. Unfortunately our paths won't cross again on this trip, but who knows, maybe one day, it’s a small world.

13 hours on a coach, most of which was spent chatting to a Canadian guy and we are at Suratthani ferry port where it is very wet and windy. It turns out that the sea is so rough that the ferries might not be sailing, Great! After a couple of hours of hanging around during which I met another couple of Irish girls, Louise and Lorraine who too are going to Kho Tao we heard that the ferry would go to Ko Sumui and then Ko Phan-gnan but not to Koh Tao, it might be 3 days before we can get there, O' Dear. Back to the party island of Ko Phan-gnan then, and a bit of dejavu, it turns out it’s the half moon party tonight. At last it was onto the ferry for what should be a 3 and a half hour journey, it turned out to be what felt like the longest, roughest ferry journey ever, but what an adventure and it won't be forgotten that’s for sure. I have never seen waves like it, Unbelievable, apparently they are 4m high, im not sure about that but they are xxxxxx massive, the ferry is being thrown all over the place, at times the front of it was right up in the air and the waves are crashing right over the top, it’s crazy. I was absolutely fine to start with, I paid extra for a soft seat in the V.I.P area where there was videos being played. The crew handed out sick bags and there was people throwing up on all sides of me, it stinks. I was fine until I went downstairs to go to the toilet, everyone is at it, everyone has got there life jackets on, and there is bags of sick and pale faces everywhere.

On seeing that I came over a bit funny and thought it was my turn, a rush out onto deck where there is more seriously ill looking faces and I somehow managed to avoid a load of flying sick, Lucky. A bit of fresh air and I’m fine, everything stayed down and we eventually stopped at Ko Sumui, I’ve got to be one of the very few people along with the Irish girls that didn’t throw up and it seems as if the majority of people are getting off, they are obviously not up for the next bit of the journey ha ha. Whilst stopped I made the fatal mistake of guzzling down a load of water as half an hour into the next stretch it came back up, nothing else though, just pure water, I then laid out on the deck getting covered in spray and somehow believe it or not fell asleep, not long after waking up we were in Ko Phan-Ngan. I was in a taxi all set to head back to Hat Rin beach, when the Irish girls came up to me and said that there is a Catamaran on the other pier which is going to Kho Tao, Sweet, it’s more money as it’s with a different company but at least we will get there, what a result. Whilst waiting to get on the girls met some friends of theirs that have been stuck on Ko Phan-gnna for the last week, they too are coming to Kho Tao. What is with this weather?

Onto the Catamaran and it all started good, not for long though, it’s crazy, they are designed for this sort of weather but they are also a lot faster, I swear it was hitting the waves and jumping into the air, we are being thrown all over the place and once again everyone has got the life jackets and sick bags out. I had to go outside, that lot are doing me in. Hanging onto and looking off the back with another couple of fellers, these waves are even bigger and due to the water coming over the top along with the side spray I am now absolutely soaked. This is absolutely crazy, the waves are unbelievable, I am never sick but I think Im going to be very shortly. No, just some dry reaching, nothing is coming up, if it did I would probably feel better. Looking at the waves in amazement makes me feel better but hanging onto the back is bloody hard work and so I had to move back a bit.

The journey ended up taking another 2 and a half hours and after a lot more dry reaching with nothing but flem coming up, I don't think that I have ever felt so ill, I’m wet, cold, my stomach is in my throat and my legs are like jelly. After nearly 9 hours at sea I was so xxxxxx happy to see land, although for about 10 minutes after getting off I felt as if I was still going up and down, land sickness, Great! I then got a taxi with the girls to Sairee beech where they have already got a beach bungalow and some more friends waiting for them which they introduced me to. Being on my tod the accommodation is going to work out too expensive at this place and so I left them to find somewhere cheaper, What a mission. I eventually found a little beach hut for 3 pound 50 a night and was so glad to get my backpack off, It’s been 23 hours since I left Bangkok, what a journey. There is not much day light left so I had a quick wander up the road to grab a milkshake and find a bank and I ran into the girls and the others again, 6 girls and 5 blokes, a bite to eat together and then onto the beach for a beer, it seems kind of like Ko Phan-gnan with beach bars and fire shows only it seems a lot more chilled out.

Well the weather is a lot better today, still not very sunny though. I didn't get up till late, had some brunch and then just pretty much chilled out all day, I’m going to wait until after Christmas to do the diving, a few people have said that at the moment the visibility is less than 1m. Louise who is a rescue diver and James a dive instructor have both said that learning in poor visibility will make me a better diver, and that there is nothing worse than a diver who learns in excellent visibility, to them they are the worst divers. Point taken but it would be nice to be able to see my instructor as well as some cool marine life. I had some dinner with a guy from Switzerland who is staying in the hut next to mine and then I had a walk along the beach to the girl’s bungalow to meet them and the others. We then sat on the beach at The Lotus Bar drinking until the early hours of the morning.

What a beautiful day. I can't believe it is Christmas eve, being here it just does not feel like Christmas. Louise and Lorraine are getting into the festive spirit and have decorated there bungalow, they have even made a little Christmas tree ha ha. Anyway, met the others for lunch and then we walked to Mae Haad Bay the main village on the island for a bit of Christmas shopping. I have got one present to buy as last night we played secret santa, everyone's name into a hat and then the person whose name you pick out is the person you buy a present for, that way everyone gets a present, cool.

Walking through Mae Haad I walked past Bob in an internet cafe, he has just got here and was just emailing me, crazy, he is staying with his Dad and his Dad’s girlfriend on the south of the island, we had a good old chat and then arranged to meet tomorrow. Back to the girl’s bungalow for a quick present wrap and then some connect 4 and cards before going out for some dinner. After dinner we headed back to the lotus bar which is pretty quiet, everyone seems to be heading up to the other end of the beach, and so me and Lorraine went to check it out.

I ended up meeting up with the couple of English lads that I was hanging on the back of the catamaran with the other day, Ross and Mitch and another feller from London who whilst walking up the road clocked my accent, we then spent the rest of the evening going from club to club, drinking shots of Sambuca and drinking buckets and we also hooked up with the others along the way. A quality night, I’ve got no idea what time I left the last club as I don't actually remember leaving, although I remember it being daylight.

Merry Christmas, and I have just woken up next to an American bird, ummmm, what's that all about. Obviously another good night on the buckets, my concerted effort to stay off the damn things was a bit pathetic ha ha. I honestly can't say for sure but im guessing nothing happened with her as I have still got my trousers on, maybe I’ll get some flash backs later on. Anyway I eventually got rid of her and then headed down the beach to meet the others, it’s 1pm already. We then all got a taxi into Mae Haad for a big group Christmas breakfast, there is about 20 of us in total, most of which are still feeling rough from last night. I then just spent the rest of the day chilling out and drinking as much water as possible, the old red bull withdrawal shakes have started to kick in, that stuff is lethal.

Yesterday we had all decided that we were all going to go out for a traditional Christmas dinner, James however has got some Italian friends on the island who are going to an Italian restaurant in Mae Haad and so the group has now split into 2. Obviously it goes without saying that I am going to the Italian restaurant, I honestly don't think I could stomach a Christmas dinner at the moment. A nice meal, and by the time we left the restaurant it was well gone midnight. A taxi back to the girls hut and I then spent the next couple of hours chatting and playing cards with Sam.

A proper Christmas day, recovering from the night before, seriously struggling to eat dinner and then the old tradition of playing games, Wicked!

A day of doing absolutely nothing other than eating, chilling out, and playing cards and connect four. After dinner we hit a few bars along with Ross and Mitch and also the American bird who will just not leave my side. I’ve since found out that nothing happened between us although she seems pretty keen for something to happen, she couldn't offer herself on the plate anymore if she tried. Sorry sweetheart but im not interested, I don't mind sorting her out, I just can't be bothered with all the touchy feely, small talk chit chat crap that goes with it, I just can't be bothered and so im just not interested, obviously I didn't tell her that although I would have if she had asked, it was bloody hard work getting rid of her at the end of the night though. A pretty quiet night really, either a lot of people have left the island or they are suffering from Christmas day hangovers.

Me, Ross and Mitch were up for a big night out, they are leaving tomorrow and I booked a 3 day, SSI Open Water Scuba Diving Course today and so after tonight won't be drinking until New Years Eve. We still didn't get in until 3am but it was definitely not a mad one, just very relaxed and chilled out, I actually stopped drinking early in the night as there is no point just drinking just for the sake of it.

The highlight of the night was Mitch having a go at the fire spinning, he thought they had gone out and so dipped them in the fuel bucket for another go, obviously they had not burnt out fully as the bucket blew up in his face, luckily he jumped back out of the way, he could have been caught alight, there was then a big mad rush of people throwing sand over the fire to put it out ha ha.

Pretty much just chilled out all day and then realized that my bank card for some reason keeps being rejected. A phone call later and it turns out that the bank had put a block on it due to irregular activity, it’s nice to know they are on the ball but what a mission, all back in service now, they were just awaiting confirmation from me. At 3pm I started my diving course along with 2 other English fellers, Luke and Kevin.

Not much to report, met our instructor, Wanja and our dive master Clive, we had a bit of paperwork to fill out and then we just had to watch a dive video, we have also got a book to read along with 6 pages of questions to answer, the 1st 2 of which have got to be done for tomorrow. I then chilled out with the others for a while before all going to get some dinner, we then watched a film in a bar and then I headed back to read my book and answer some questions.

Up bright and early for a day in the sea. An equipment sizing and briefing, another video and then some theory, it’s like being back at college. After lunch it’s off on the boat to one of the dive sites, after putting our equipment together we then had to do a swim test, 3 times around the boat and then treading water for 10 minutes, a walk in the park for me, Kevin And Luke were xxxxx, smokers a? Masks, snorkels and fins on and it’s into the water for a snorkelling lesson, cool, I can do it properly now. Back on the boat to put all the gear on and then back into the water for the swim to the beach.

Today is just in confined/shallow water and is for getting us used to the equipment and learning the required under water skills which included retrieving lost mouth pieces, swapping air supplies, half and fully filling our masks with water and then emptying them, removing our mask and breathing under water for 1 minute without it before replacing and emptying it, removing our equipment under water and replacing it, and emergency ascending techniques. The only one I was worried about was the removing the mask and then replacing and clearing it under water, no worries what so ever, quality, and it’s nice to know that if you mess up or panic you can just stand up, relax and then try again. We all done really well and on the way back to the boat we had a little swim around the reef, see some quality sea life, although the deepest we went was only about 3m.

Back in the boat to the dive centre and we have been given more homework ha ha! A quick bite to eat with the others and then back to my hut to read, I am proper knackered, the old diving proper takes it out of ya, forget doing the questions I’ll do them in the morning.

Another early one and I’m doing my homework whilst eating breakfast. Another morning of theory, discussions and videos, learning what effect diving and increased pressure can have on the human body, along with the dangers that may be caused by not following the rules, it’s all interesting stuff.

After lunch it was out on the boat again for our first proper dive, it was good but a bit messy and the visibility isn't that great, we all found ourselves concentrating more on buddying each other, equalizing our ears, and staying neutrally buoyant. Down to 11m this time. Back on the surface we done a few rescue exercises and then got back on the boat, renewed our air cylinders and then drove to another dive site. What an awesome dive, so much better than the first, it almost felt natural. 13m down and standing on the bottom we then one at a time had to do all the skills that we learnt yesterday, The fact that we are 13m down enough put the pressure on, if anyone is going to panic it’s going to be now, not for us boys though, all spot on and ready to carry on with the dive. It’s xxxxxx amazing, an entirely different world.

Back on the surface we then had to take off our Buoyancy control jackets and air cylinders and then put them back on whilst floating, not forgetting the fact that we have still got weights around our wastes. Another skill mastered and then it’s back on the boat to the dive centre where we had to rinse out all of our equipment. It’s been a long day, it’s now 8.30pm. I walked along the beach to see the others but they are all asleep after doing an overnight visa run. A bite to eat and then back to the hut to do some reading! We have got another 2 dives tomorrow and then a final exam.

The final day of diving today. By 8.30am we were at the dive site and in the water, the visibility is only about 5m today at this dive site, still awesome though. 18m down and we again had to do our skills before swimming around the coral reef, breathing under water now is like second nature, we are all so much more relaxed. Back on the boat after the dive and

2 girls who did the dive with us just did not stop moaning. They did there open water course in Fiji and according to them they couldn't see anything, they must have been diving with there eyes closed, of course they were expecting 30m plus visibility like they got when they did there course in Fiji, they were so disappointed that they cancelled there second dive. James and Louise were spot on with what they said about divers who learn in perfect conditions, ha ha their loss.

At the second dive site and after getting our equipment ready for the next dive, we then got in the water with just our masks, snorkel and fins on for a quick lesson in skin diving. I’ve not heard of it before but it’s pretty amazing and quite unbelievable. With the right breathing techniques before diving under, it is possible to free dive down to depths of over 40m and stay there for up to 5 minutes on one breath, now that sounds crazy but trust me I’ve seen it done. I got down to about 5m and then came up because I could feel the pressure in my ears, obviously you have to constantly equalize on the way down. It’s surprising how fast you can dive down with fins on but also you to make sure that you have got enough air to last until you can get back up on the surface, I swallowed my share of salt water that's for sure, it’s awesome to see. Apparently there is a 4 day course which you can do on the island where they teach you the correct breathing techniques needed to reach the 40m mark, how cool would that be. Obviously it has got its dangers, holding your breath for that amount of time causes large amounts of carbon dioxide to build up and so when surfacing can cause shallow water blackouts, although with the correct breathing techniques it can be avoided.

Anyway it’s now time for our 4th and final open water dive. Much better visibility at this site, about 12m. Another quality dive although unfortunately we didn't get to see any sharks or turtles. Back to the dive centre and it’s time for some more theory before completing our final exam, 50 questions on which the pass mark is 80%. I can't believe I got 1 wrong, 98% never mind ha ha, we all passed although one was very close to failing, obviously didn't read the book. So I’m now a certified open water diver, it’s kind of like a driving test, you learn the safety, skills and basics and then demonstrate that you know what to do, but it’s only really when you pass your test that you really start learning and gaining confidence and experience.

A cold shower and then out for dinner with the others, they are all having a session tonight, I had a beer with them and then headed back for an early one, I’m pretty tired and I’m sure im coming down with something the old throat is really sore, not only that I have got to be up early in the morning to meet Bob. We are going to hire some quads for the day and explore the island, it will actually be the first time that we have met since I bumped into him the day after I arrived on the island, he has been ill and with family on the other side of the island and I have been diving and hanging out with my beach bum friends on this side.

I would really like to do the skin diving course but I haven't really got time, I’m heading down Malaysia on the 9th Jan and me and Bob have planned to go somewhere else first. I’ll think about it, I’m going to concentrate on the scuba diving and if the skin diving is still bugging me later on then I’ll be back next year for sure. Koh Tao is such a beautiful, quality, chilled out island.

Not good, I feel like xxxx, kept waking up in the night one minute I was hot, then I was cold, my throat is all swollen up and I feel light headed, great! I proper struggled to eat breakfast, forced it down though followed by some Ibuprofen tablets, which once kicked in made me feel a lot better.

Met Bob as planned and we had a mission to find 2 quads for hire, we eventually got a couple and then set off around the island. My quad is fine but for some reason Bobs keeps getting stuck everywhere, after about 30 minutes of Bob constantly getting stuck we drove back to the shop to swap it for another one. With the back of the quad lifted up and a hand on the gas it turns out that only 1 wheel is driving, no wonder he keeps getting stuck, the bloke hasn’t got another quad and so we got our money back, we couldn't find anywhere else with quads and so gave up on the idea. Had a pizza each for lunch and then on Bobs motorbike drove to a really nice empty little bay which Bob found a couple of days ago. We hired masks, snorkels and fins and got straight in the sea. Crystal clear water and so many different types of fish and coral, it’s surprising how far out you can swim with fins on and with so little effort. We were practicing the old skin diving too, diving down to about 6m, it’s quality, I saw more different types of fish around that bay than I did whilst diving.

After spending pretty much all afternoon in the water I’m now back at my hut and feeling pretty xxxxx, probably not a good choice of events considering how crap I was feeling this morning, it had to be done though. I then spent the next couple of hours in bed shivering ha ha. Out for a late dinner which I couldn't eat, with Martin from Australia and Daniela from Slovenia who I met a few days back, they are also staying in the same resort as me. We then just sat and chilled on the beach, it’s actually really chilled out considering it is New Years Eve, which is good because im feeling light headed and definitely not drinking. The beach looks awesome, all the bars are lit up, there are Thai's having barbeques on the beach, fire shows and lots of fireworks going off. We ran into the other guys at the Lotus bar and then just sat on the beach drinking, not me I’m on the old sprite. At midnight it was the usual Happy New Year hand shakes and kisses all round and then the others were trying to get me to go to a club with them, I was tempted but had to keep saying no, my throat is xxxxx and im really struggling to talk. Instead I left and was tucked up in bed by 1am, that could possibly be the cheapest New Year that I have ever had.